Columnar apple tree

The columnar apple tree is a natural clone of the common apple tree. It has no side branches. How did you come up with such an unusual culture? It was back in 1964 in what is now Canada.

Apple tree varieties Mac, which was already very old age (about 50 years old), surprised the breeders with her one branch. She possessed a large amount of green mass, and also struck with an abundance of fruits.

Most interestingly, there were no side shoots on this branch. Of course, breeders began to breed this unusual phenomenon. At the same time, not only specialists from England, but also breeders from all over the world worked on the creation of such an interesting clone.

And only in 1976, the first specimens of columnar apple trees turned out.

Columnar apple tree: characteristics

columnar apple tree

Scientists have proved that such an extraordinary property inherent in the speckled apple appeared thanks to a special gene. Such apple trees have branches extending from the main trunk.

They have a rather sharp angle of inclination, and are located almost along the base of the plant.

The columnar apple tree resembles a pyramidal poplar in its shape. That is, there is a rather thick powerful trunk. There are many small twigs on it, on the top of which flowers are formed.

As a rule, the "skeleton" of common apple trees is many times more powerful than the lateral branches of a columnar apple tree.

Several varieties are distinguished among the columnar apple trees: dwarf (branches less than others), medium-sized (branching one and a half to three times) and tall (three to four times).

When the columnar apple tree reaches the age of three to four years, the side shoots no longer appear. If the bud located at the very top of the plant is deformed, then the tree stops gaining growth and then the lateral branches begin to grow.

Therefore, gardeners who grow columnar apple trees on their site are so closely monitoring the integrity of the apical bud. After all, it, by and large, determines the future shape of the plant. The growth point should be maintained for at least the first two to three years.

Flowering and fruiting occurs approximately two to three years after planting. During the first period (five to six years), each year the tree bears more and more fruit. When the plant is seven to eight years old, the yield becomes more stable.

This happens if all agricultural techniques are followed correctly. As a rule, this variety of apple trees bears fruit for no more than fifteen to twenty years. When this time passes, most of the annelids die.

But to make the life of the plant longer is possible with the help of anti-aging pruning. This is true for medium-sized, vigorous varieties.

The columnar apple tree is often planted by summer residents who do not have a very large territory. Because the space that one ordinary apple tree takes can be planted with more than one instance of a columnar apple tree.

There are two main types of columnar apple trees: apple trees with the Co gene and common varieties grafted with dwarf clonal rootstocks.

Planting columnar apple trees

columnar apple tree

First of all, let's figure out at what time the columnar apple tree is planted.

Most gardeners give their preference to planting in the spring, before the buds open.If the spring planting did not work out, you can plant your columnar apple trees in the fall (late September - early October).

An important condition for this is the absence of cold temperatures.

It is best to purchase seedlings for these purposes at one year of age, and not two years old. Since the annual columnar apple tree is quite well mastered in a new place and begins to bear fruit faster.

When buying planting material, be sure to look at the condition of the plant root system. They shouldn't show any signs of illness. Ideally, if the plant is in a container, then it can be planted even in summer.

When choosing a site for planting, give preference to an open, well-lit area. A prerequisite for this is the presence of protection against gusty winds.

As for the soil, then it must be sufficiently nutritious, and also allow moisture to pass through well. The groundwater level should be no higher than two meters.

Now let's move on to the main stages and rules for planting a columnar apple tree in the fall.

If you are planting more than one tree on your site, then it is better to place your plantings in rows. There should be a distance of at least half a meter between the plants, and about one meter between the rows.

Planting pits should be ninety centimeters wide, long and deep. The pits are prepared in advance. As a rule, a couple of weeks before planting the apple trees, otherwise, the soil will settle, and the root collar of the plant will be covered with soil. This can destroy the seedling.

When you pull out the planting holes, be sure to throw the top of the soil to the side. It contains the largest number of useful elements. Don't mix the bottom and top layers.

If the area where you plant the apple trees is with rather heavy soil, then lay a mixture of crushed stone and sand on the bottom of each pit.

Then mix the fertile layer of earth with the following fertilizers: humus or compost (three to four buckets) + superphosphate (one hundred grams) + potassium fertilizer (fifty to one hundred grams).

If the soil has an increased level of acidity, then also add dolomite flour (one hundred to two hundred grams). After a couple of weeks, the nutrient soil will have time to settle and become more dense.

After two weeks, add the remaining soil to the planting hole. You should get a small hill on which you place the rhizomes of the plant. In this case, the root collar should be slightly higher than the surface of the earth.

Spread out the entire root system and cover with soil from the bottom of the planting hole (infertile soil), then tamp the soil. Then, stepping back from the plant about thirty centimeters, create something like a roller in a circle.

It should be ten to fifteen centimeters high. Be sure to water your seedling, for one plant the consumption is from ten to twenty liters of liquid. When the water is completely absorbed into the ground, place a mulch made from sawdust, peat, or ground grass on the ground.

It will not be superfluous if a peg is placed near the young plant, to which the trunk of the apple tree is attached.

If for some reason you decide to plant columnar apple trees in spring, then it is necessary to prepare pits for planting in autumn. During the winter, the soil will have time to settle and become more dense, while all top dressing will be able to dissolve and assimilate.

In such planting holes, young seedlings are mastered much faster and will be able to grow in color this year. The spring planting algorithm is no different from the fall planting order.

Columnar apple trees - description and rules of care

Care is carried out throughout the spring, summer and fall. Let's consider each period in more detail.

Caring for a columnar apple tree in the spring.

In the spring, pruning of your apple trees should be carried out, and it is also necessary to do preventive treatment against various pests and diseases. This must be done before the buds open on the trees.

In the same period of time, add top dressing to the soil, which contains a large amount of nitrogen.

If the plants are planted this year, then be sure to break off the buds that are formed. In the second year of the tree's life, you need to leave about ten buds. From the age of three, the load on the plant increases, but not abruptly, but gradually.

Thus, the plant should have twice as many buds as the fruit will ripen. Each fruit link should have two inflorescences. It is necessary to thin out again in the summer.

In spring, it is imperative to carry out regular watering and loosening of the trunk circle. Loosening must be done carefully, only the top layer of the soil should be involved. Try not to damage the root system.

This is especially true for trees that are grown on the rootstock of a columnar apple tree. In this situation, it is recommended to tin the space around the trunk rather than mulch.

For this purpose, step back about twenty centimeters from the trunk and plant around plants that act as siderates. They will need to be mowed periodically.

Caring for a columnar apple tree in summer.

Before mid-June, fertilize the complex. For this, fertilizing based on mineral elements is most often used. After the ovaries have formed on the trees, do a second thinning, leaving half of the ovaries.

When the future fruits reach the size of a cherry, leave a pair of ovaries in each inflorescence. When the fruits reach the size of a walnut, leave only one ovary at a time, and remove the second. Ultimately, on one link, one link should only bring one bull's eye.

Inspect your plantings periodically. If you find signs of pests or diseases working, be sure to take the necessary action. It is imperative to solve this problem by curing the plants, or getting rid of harmful insects.

Otherwise, the harvest may not be expected. Stop any treatments before harvesting (about one month).

Stop organic fertilization from the beginning of August. Nitrogen-containing top dressing must also be excluded. During this period, potassium-based feeding will be beneficial. Such fertilization will help young shoots to ripen faster.

Also shorten the upper shoots by two-thirds of four leaves, which are located directly on top. This measure will help keep them out of the cold winter temperatures.

Caring for a columnar apple tree in summer.

After harvesting the entire crop, fertilize your apple trees and carry out the autumn treatment for pests and fungal diseases. They could hide in the bark and tree-trunk circles of plants. If necessary, carry out a sanitary pruning. This is followed by the preparation of apple trees for winter.

Separately, it is necessary to say about how to carry out the processing of your columnar apple trees.

In early spring, when the sap flow has not yet begun, and also in the fall after leaf fall, treat your apple trees against pests and diseases. Not only the tree itself is processed, but also the near-stem circle of the plant.

As a rule, experienced gardeners use Nitrafen or Bordeaux liquid (one percent solution). Such a measure will save your plant from various pests and carriers of various diseases, because they could hide well in the bark of a tree or in the ground near it.

Sometimes for spring treatment, urea is used in the form of a seven percent solution. This product is a good fungicide and insecticide. In addition, urea contains nitrogen necessary for plant growth and development.

Now let's move on to such an important part of caring for apple trees as watering.

The columnar apple tree does not have a taproot deep in the soil in its root system. The roots of this plant are superficial.And they are located, as a rule, within a radius of 20 - 25 centimeters from the trunk of the plant.

In this regard, it is necessary to water young trees in normal weather in the summer about once every three days.

If it is a hot and dry season, then watering should be done frequently: daily or every other day. Older trees are watered once or twice a week. From the 15th of June, apple trees need to be watered a little less often, and with the onset of August, watering stops altogether.

This is due to the fact that plants need to have time to form flowers to the end, as well as properly prepare for winter time.

Do not allow the soil to dry out too quickly to avoid crusting on the ground. To do this, mulch the tree trunk circle with straw, or plant siderates.

Columnar apple trees are very convenient to water using the drip irrigation system. It is necessary to establish a certain dosage of moisture that will be supplied to the plants.

Water your apple trees about once a month. The water should reach the deepest roots. Water the crowns of your apple trees once every couple of weeks in the evening.

Next, we'll talk about how to use these or those fertilizers for your plants.

On such a variety of apple trees, as you might guess, it turns out to grow a lot of fruits. For this reason, the plant needs quite a lot of nutrition for such a load, so you need to make periodical feeding while your trees are gaining growth.

In the spring, columnar apple trees are usually fertilized with organic matter. You can use bird droppings for this purpose (it must be fermented) or slurry. Plants require nitrogen, for this you can use urea in the form of a 7% solution.

This procedure should be carried out in early spring before the kidneys open. Then, until the middle of summer, you can add a couple more foliar dressings. You can also use urea (0.1 percent solution) for this.

When the apple trees are actively gaining growth, and usually this time falls on the beginning - mid-May, a certain amount of fertilizing based on mineral elements is required.

At this time, columnar apple trees are waiting for potash fertilizers from you. This element is very important for a better ripening process of the shoots, or rather its upper part.

Moving on to the topic wintering your columnar apple trees. When autumn only comes, it is necessary to cover the bole of each young tree well with shavings or spruce branches. Only dried covering material must be used for this purpose.

Also, it should not be accessible for rodents. Straw will not work as a covering material. If, nevertheless, you used straw as mulch, then be sure to remove it in the fall, since this is just a favorite delicacy for rodents.

After the appearance of snow, use it to spud the apple tree trunks.

Rules for pruning spiky apple trees

In general, it is not required to form the crown of a columnar apple tree, since in principle there should not be branches on it. It is necessary to remove the lateral branches in early summer or in the fall after leaf fall.

When pruning an apple tree, always remember that if you cut more branches, they will grow even more actively. Suppose a branch has been cut in half and has three or four eyes. A little later, new strong shoots will appear.

If one third of the branch was cut off, and seven to eight eyes remain on it, then we will also get seven to eight shoots of medium power.

With the correct pruning of a columnar apple tree, it annually adds about ten to twelve centimeters in its growth, and also forms two to three lateral buds of the tree.

When pruning, be sure to remember that you do not need to touch the growth point (or the center conductor). Otherwise, if you lose it, the columnar apple tree will cease to be such, and side branches will begin to appear intensively.

In the fall (at the beginning of September), it is recommended to remove all lateral branches from an annual plant with the expectation that a pair of buds should remain on each branch. Biennial and 3-year-old plants also require pruning.

At the same time, it is necessary to form fruit links from young shoots. Cut off unnecessary lateral shoots while they are still green, as on shoots that are already lignified, wounds heal worse and longer.

As for the spring pruning, then you need to have time to carry it out before the sap flow begins. This pruning is formative. On annual plants, all side branches must be removed, leaving a couple of buds.

At the same time, pruning is done for sanitary purposes. At this time, you need to remove the affected, thickening, broken branches. The branches should not interfere with each other in growth and cross. Also, do not forget to remove the shoots frozen during wintering.

As for a two-year-old tree, then pruning must be carried out here, which will help form the fruit links. On a branch last year that we pruned and has two shoots, cut the shoot that is more upright.

Leave only two buds on it. The shoot that grows horizontally will bear fruit this year. As for the cut one, two strong new shoots will grow from it.

In a three-year-old plant, branches that have borne fruit last year are removed. Those branches that remain need to be pruned exactly the same as last year.

Remember, the fruit link can normally exist for no more than three to four years. When this period expires, cut it into a ring.

If it so happened that the growth point still died, then it is recommended to trim the conductor. Only two buds should remain on it. After that, you need to wait for new lateral branches to grow from these buds.

Among these branches, leave only one, the one that grows in the vertical direction. This branch will replace your explorer. Remove those lateral branches that remain on a stump. One stump should be as long as a ringlet.

As for the autumn pruning, it, as a rule, is not carried out for columnar apple trees. This is done if there is a strong need for it.

How to propagate columnar apple trees

In order to propagate a columnar apple tree, a cutting of the desired variety is grafted onto the most suitable stock. But in order for everything to go well, you need to have some experience in gardening.

In principle, apple trees can also be propagated using seeds. However, this is a very long and energy-consuming process. In addition, the disadvantages of this method are also the fact that not every apple tree that has grown from a seed will be a columnar variety.

As a rule, such apple trees propagate using air layers. You need to choose a branch for these purposes in early March. In thickness, such a branch should be about the size of a pencil. Cut the bark of the branch at the base in a ring shape. The cut should be about half a centimeter across.

Then moisten a piece of cotton wool with Heteroauxin and wrap this incision for one day. Subsequently, instead of cotton wool, in order to wrap the cut, use wet peat. You also need to use a black plastic bag, which needs to be fixed in place where the incision is.

The bag must be air tight. The peat must not completely dry out. In the fall, small roots will grow in the place where the incision was made. Next, you need to separate this branch from the mother tree and plant it in the ground.

It is not a fact that the plant will take root, as a rule, here the success is fifty to fifty.

Growing such seedlings is not the easiest task and this is a job for patient and competent gardeners. Therefore, purchase planting material from professional gardening shops or good nurseries, and not from dubious private owners.

The transportation of seedlings must be carried out correctly and accurately.

About pests and diseases of columnar apple trees

The list of harmful insects that your columnar apple tree can suffer from is quite extensive.

Among the main enemies of this culture, gardeners note the sawfly, various aphids, red mites, glassworms, leafworms, various scoops, silkworms, rowan moth and others.

Typically, seicides are used to kill pests. And to prevent harmful insects from climbing up the tree trunk, gardeners use the so-called "trapping belts", which are made of paper corrugation.

The diseases to which the columnar apple tree is susceptible are no different from those that the common apple tree suffers from. From the huge list, one can especially note the witch's broom, mosaic, cancer, powdery mildew, scab, fruit rot, rust and others.

Columnar apple tree: varieties - the most popular varieties

Columnar apple varieties are classified according to plant growth. The varieties are dwarf, medium-sized and vigorous. Also, the varieties are divided by the timing of the ripening of apples into early, middle and late.

Moreover, the fruits ripen in summer, autumn and winter, respectively.

Let us dwell in more detail on the most popular varieties that delight with their fruits already in the summer. This period starts at the end of July and ends at the beginning of September. Apples are good to eat fresh, but they are also good for different preparations.

Early apples are not stored too long. The following are in great demand among summer varieties:

Nectar. This variety belongs to semi-dwarf plants. Possesses a high yield. It tolerates cold temperatures well, has strong immunity against major diseases and pests.

Apples have a white-yellow color and a rather dense, thick rind. Inside, apples have a large amount of juice, slightly grainy in texture. They have a pleasant honey note in the taste. As a rule, one apple weighs from one hundred to two hundred and fifty grams.

In height, a tree of this variety reaches about two hundred to two hundred and fifty centimeters.

The president. This variety is semi-dwarf, the plant is very compact in size. However, it has a good yield level. The president is calmly enduring the low temperatures.

It is also quite rarely attacked by various diseases and pests. Apples have a very bright pleasant aroma, have a light yellow or pale green color. Sometimes beautiful soft pink barrels appear on the surface of apples.

As a rule, one fruit in its weight reaches one hundred fifty - two hundred grams. The inside of the apple is fine-grained in texture, tender, quite a lot of juice.

Vasyugan. The variety gives good harvest results. Has a high resistance to cold weather, as well as to pests and various diseases. The fruits have a bright characteristic apple aroma and cone shape.

Interesting colors: red striped. The fruit tastes sweet and sour. The inside of the apple is quite soft and juicy, the flesh is creamy. As a rule, one fruit weighs one hundred forty to two hundred grams.

Dialog. Dialogue belongs to medium-sized varieties. It has a good yield indicator. It can withstand frosts quite firmly. It is rarely attacked by harmful insects and diseases.

The fruits are deep yellow in color. Not too large in size. There is a lot of juice. The fruit is slightly flat in shape.

Ostankino. This variety is medium-sized. Well resistant to pests and diseases. The apples are very fragrant, sweet in taste with a pleasant refreshing sourness. The color of the fruits is light green, they have a fuzzy pretty blush.

The fruit gives a lot of juice, by weight, as a rule, one fruit can vary from one hundred to two hundred and twenty grams.

Now let's move on to mid-season varieties, the fruits of which can be enjoyed throughout the fall.Such varieties are good both for eating fresh fruits and for various winter preparations.

Usually such varieties can not be stored for too long, at best until January. The most popular among this category are varieties:

Baby. This variety is dwarf in size. Gardeners highly praise Malyukha for the very high qualities of taste and aroma. The fruits are in the shape of a truncated cone. Apples are sweet, dessert to taste.

The size is quite large. The fruits are yellow with an orange tint. In weight, they reach from one hundred and fifty to two hundred and fifty grams. The surface has a glossy appearance. Inside is an apple of fine-grained structure, fragrant. Gives a very good harvest, is fast-growing.

Gin. This variety is quite fruitful, tolerates frost well. Apples are deep red in color. In weight, they can vary from eighty to two hundred grams.

Inside the apple has a dense pulp, a lot of juice, sweet taste with pleasant acidity. They are able to lie until January.

Triumph. In terms of size, the Triumph is medium-sized. The apples are dark red. Sometimes a striped blush appears. The surface of the fruit is shiny, the skin is rather thick in texture.

The pulp crunches well, has a snow-white color, inside the texture is fine-grained. Dessert taste with a good balance of acidity. One apple weighs about one hundred to one hundred and fifty grams.

Arbat. Columnar apple tree that can please you with a good harvest. Good resistance to cold temperatures and major diseases. As a rule, apples ripen in late September - early November.

The apples are of a beautiful rich cherry color. The surface is glossy. The fruit is medium in size. Juicy, sweet and sour inside. The fruit weighs on average one hundred to one hundred twenty grams.

Iezen. The variety is vigorous. It has good resistance to major diseases, in particular scab. Winters well. The apples are yellow with reddish touches. On average, one fruit weighs one hundred and fifty grams.

The inside is an apple with a fine-grained structure, rather dense. The color of the pulp is yellow with a greenish tinge. Has high qualities of taste and aroma.

Let's move on to the list of varieties that bear fruit since mid-autumn, they are called winter varieties. Because they have good keeping quality and can maintain their best qualities until spring. Among them, the most popular are:

Amber necklace. It is a medium-sized columnar apple tree with a good yield. Winters well. Brings apples of green color with a yellow tint. Quite a large-fruited variety.

Inside, the apple is fine-grained in texture, has a bright aroma and juicy sweet-sour pulp.

Currency. Refers to early-growing plants. In size, this is a medium-sized tree. Productivity is at a good level, practically not affected by scab. Winters well. Bears large fruits (one about two hundred grams).

The color is rich yellow with a reddish blush. Inside there is a white apple, a lot of juice, aromatics are very bright.

Moscow necklace. The columnar apple is self-fertile, but it has a high yield. It tolerates cold temperatures. It is practically not attacked by diseases and pests.

Apples are quite large in size, dark red in color. The rind is quite dense. Inside there is an apple of dessert taste, there is a lot of juice, there is a pleasant sourness. One fruit usually weighs about one hundred and seventy grams.

Bolero. This variety produces rather large apples, on average one specimen weighs about two hundred grams. Inside the apple has a white pulp, the structure is dense, has a lot of juice, crunches excellently.

Yesenia. The columnar apple tree, which tolerates frosty weather, is rarely attacked by pests and diseases. High scab resistance. Yesenia is a fairly large-fruited variety.

On average, one apple weighs one hundred and seventy grams.Above, the apples are covered with a waxy bloom of a bluish hue.

Columnar apple tree photo