Asters: planting and care in the open field. Seed propagation
Asters are very diverse flowers, subdivided into perennial and annual. The flower is very simple in appearance, many of its petals are collected in the form of a basket, different colors, which depend on the variety. Some of the types and classification of asters will be discussed below.
Asters: varieties and types
The representative of perennial asters - ALPINE, reaches a height of 30 cm, pleases with May flowering, looks like a daisy.
ITALIAN (popularly chamomile) aster is quite high, up to half a meter, the inflorescences are large in diameter. Blooms in the first half of summer.
SHRUB ASTER is an autumn species; it decorates the flower bed with abundant leaves. The height depends on the variety, from 20 to 55 cm.
NOVOBELGIYSKAYA aster - one of the common types of asters, in height it is divided into three parameters: low, medium, high, dark shades of color prevail, or simply pink. The number of inflorescences compensates for their size. You can learn more about the New Belgian aster here.
NEW ENGLISH very common among autumn varieties, the plants are quite tall, up to 1.5 meters, multiple, but small inflorescences attract attention.
VERESKAYA aster - a representative of perennials, forms a green cover about a meter in height, the main color palette is white, pleasing to the eye in early autumn, can perfectly dilute a multi-colored meadow from other representatives of perennials blooming in autumn.
Asters planting and care in the open field, fertilization
The second half of spring is quite suitable for disembarkation, you should not be afraid of late frosts, since aster is not particularly afraid of temperature changes, it tolerates up to +3. Drainage and a lot of light must be present at the chosen place, the soil must be fertilized if such an item is absent. In the autumn, dig up with the addition of manure, and in the spring add superphosphate. If you have confidence in the fertility of the soil, additional fertilizers are not needed, an overabundance can negatively affect.
Before planting, be sure to loosen the soil to a depth of at least 5 cm. Then water. It is advisable to make the row spacing at least 40-50 cm, and it is also necessary to leave a distance of at least 15-20 cm between the bushes. Subsequent watering only after three days. In general, aster is not whimsical, does not require increased care, the most necessary will be weeding, which should be done carefully, preferably after rain, trying not to damage the root system. Hilling can be carried out after the appearance of signs of the beginning of branching, while the roots will begin to develop faster. Watering in moderation, in a dry season, slightly increase the amount of water.
During the year, fertilization of the site should be minimized, up to three times: spring feeding, 14 days after thinning, applying nitrogen-containing fertilizers, the second stage - after the formation of buds (phosphorus, potassium), the third time directly during flowering, also potassium and phosphorus. It is imperative to remove dried flowers in a timely manner. Before the onset of autumn frosts and at the end of flowering, dig up and burn annual species in order to avoid the formation of sores and pests in this place.
After the core of the flower darkens, when fluff forms, you can start collecting seeds. Pick the flower and wrap it in paper, where it dries safely.It is advisable not to store the seeds for more than one year and use your blanks in the next season.
Preparing a perennial aster for winter
Up to 4-5 years, the selected perennial variety can grow in one place. Then you can dig up and plant in small bushes. Separation and planting is carried out in the fall. Depending on the variety, plants that are not resistant to cold can be insulated. It is advisable to remove the entire dry ground part in the fall. In spring, open sheltered plants early, growth will be faster under natural conditions.
Asters: seed growing
Most gardeners prefer seed growing. In early spring, sowing of early flowering asters begins, the second half of spring is the time for planting species of later flowering. Seeds are placed in furrows, not deep, no more than 4 cm. Warming after sowing or the use of mulch, which forms a greenhouse effect, is necessary. After the first shoots, the shelter can be removed and used when there is a threat of frost. The plant is thinned out when the first 2-3 leaves are formed. Excessive thickening results in poor flower development.
Asters: cuttings propagation
One of the breeding methods is cuttings. This method is used in June-July. Use both the top and the entire shoot. A cutting is placed in loose soil. Choose a shaded place. After planting, the seedling can be lightly covered with foil.
Aster diseases and pests
The danger of harm from sores and pests does not bypass the flowers. For example, bad, heavy soil can lead to poor germination, or the seeds will not germinate at all, and heavy soils can form a lot of moisture, as a result of which the root system will simply rot. Gladiolus and tulip will become bad precursors, because Fusarium (fungal disease) can develop. If diseased plants are found, immediately destroy them. The black leg will destroy the plant from the root. To prevent this disease, treat the plants with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Rust may form. In this case, the foliage becomes covered with pimples, the plant invariably dies. A 1% solution of copper sulfate will help in the fight.
Aphids contribute to the spread of jaundice, the signs of which are pale foliage, subsequently turning yellow, the plant slows down its growth, the buds turn green. The plant must be removed, it is better to cut and burn. Meadow bugs, slugs, spider mites can seriously harm the aster. Insectoacaricide "Actellik" will help healthy bushes not to get sick.
Asters landing and care photos