Daffodil transplant: when to transplant after flowering

Narcissus is one of the most common spring flowers and is very popular with gardeners. Gardeners choose this flower for planting because of their unpretentiousness and beautiful flowers. Daffodils grow rapidly and in order for them to bloom, they need to be transplanted every 4-5 years. Not everyone knows how to do it right. Let's take a look at transplanting daffodils and how to properly care for them without making a lot of mistakes.

Daffodil transplant: when is it needed?

Daffodils can be propagated by bulbs, i.e. vegetatively. With proper planting, 4-5 bushes may appear from one bulb in a year.

Daffodils need to be transplanted when:

• Buds are poorly formed. There are either few of them or none at all.
• The flowering period has been significantly reduced.
• The plant has grown too much, the planting has become too dense.
• There is no place to plant new plants.
• The daffodils have gone beyond their allocated space on the site.

When transplanting daffodils, remember not to do this every year. Enough once every 3-5 years, depending on the type of daffodil.

Daffodil transplant: when can you?

Agronomists advise replanting daffodils to a new place better in the second half of August. It is at this time that the laying of roots begins. When transplanting, monitor the moisture content of the soil; the bulbs do not take root in dry soil.

But if, for some reason, you did not have time to transplant the bulbs in August, you can painlessly postpone the transplanting procedure until the fall, but no later than September 10th, the most important thing is to follow all the transplant rules correctly.

For better survival, daffodil bulbs and babies need to be dug up when their leaves turn yellow and begin to dry out. Before planting, all dug tubers must be treated with a solution of potassium permanganate i.e. potassium permanganate.

Transplanting daffodils in spring is not recommended, as the percentage of their survival rate is much lower than at the end of summer, and some of the bulbs may die, up to about 20% of all transplanted flowers. But if you have no choice, then try to plant them as soon as the ground warms up, so that they have time to form a root system. As a rule, daffodils planted in spring do not flower until the following year.

Daffodil transplant rules in summer

Before planting, dig up the soil well so that it becomes light and airy. Fertilize with mineral and organic fertilizers.

To plant the bulbs, you need to dig a hole 15-19 cm deep, if your soil is heavy, then we make a hole no deeper than 8-9 cm.For planting children, we dig a hole no more than 10 cm deep.In heavy soil, no more than 6-7 cm. Distance between the pits should be 35-55 cm, so that the released flowers do not interfere with each other, and do not compete with each other for light, water and food.

For planting, we dig out the bulbs from flowers with yellowed and fallen leaves. It is in these plants that the bulbs contain the whole range of nutrients and are able to easily take root in a new place.

The dug out bulbs are cleaned from the ground, disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate. Then we plant it in pre-prepared pits. You can plant them both in groups and asymmetrically, as you like.

Water the planted bulbs. Water for irrigation should be settled and warm. If you are replanting in rainy weather, then you do not need to water.

Transplanting daffodils in the fall

Each gardener chooses the time of transplanting daffodils for himself.I repeat that the best time is the second half of August, but if in August you did not have time to transplant flowers, then try to transfer the plants to a new place during the first ten days of September.

Just like with the summer daffodil transplant, we dig up the bulbs from plants with yellowed and withered leaves. Then dry the onion. We choose among them healthy ones, without signs of illness. We disinfect them, for this we lower them for half an hour in a solution of potassium permanganate.

After that, we divide the bulbs by varieties and root them. For rooting, we take a box, fill it with soil, apply fertilizers, you can use superphosphate. We plant the bulbs by deepening them a little into the soil by about 10 cm.Water the entire planting with water. Water every three days. After a week, tender roots will form on the bulbs. Now, carefully, so as not to damage the roots, we transfer them to pre-dug holes in the open ground. The depth of the holes and the distance between them are exactly the same as when planting in summer.

If it's time to dig up the bulbs for the fall transplant of daffodils, but there is no time to root them, then store them in a dark and dry place. The air temperature in the room should be around 15-17 degrees. Remember that those tubers that have dried up do not need to be planted, they will not sprout. If you did everything correctly during transplanting, then most of the bulbs will be able to survive the cold.

Caring for daffodils after transplanting

For good growth, development and abundant flowering, daffodils need timely watering, feeding, protection from insect pests and diseases.

Plants need to be watered only in dry times, when the ground becomes dry. Typically watered twice a week. Use about a bucket (20 L) of water for every square meter of the bed. The water should be warm. If it is cold, the bulbs and roots of the daffodils can rot. It is better to take water for irrigation in the morning and put it in the sun to warm it up. In the evening, when the sun has already gone to water the flowers. Do not water during the day, as burns may form on the leaves.

In order for the water to stay in the soil longer, plantings can be mulched with straw, sawdust, compost and other types of mulch.

These flowers are fed four times throughout the growing season.

The first feeding is carried out before the emergence of shoots. Fertilize with a complex fertilizer that necessarily contains nitrogen, for example, nitrophoska 100 grams per square meter. The second and third feeding is carried out when the buds appear and the plants begin to bloom. You can also use nitrophoska 60-70 grams per 1 sq. M. The last feeding is carried out at the end of the growing season. Sixty grams of nitrophosphate per sq.m. landing. Plant feeding is always combined with watering, loosening

Loosening the soil around the flowers is just as important as fertilizing and watering. During loosening, air flows to the roots of the plant. Weeds that compete with flowers are also destroyed. By loosening the plantings every 15 days, you will save them from infection with various fungi and bacteria.

To protect the plant from diseases, prophylactic spraying is carried out three times per season. Before flowering, in time and after. Most often, the following drugs are used: Bordeaux liquid, copper sulfate, tobacco, solution, laundry soap solution.

To protect or control insect pests, daffodils are sprayed with various insecticides, preparations that destroy insects. They are sold in a large selection at any gardening store.

If you are planning to transplant daffodils, in the fall or summer, to another place, then use our tips to get it right and enjoy their flowering every year.