Violet: home care

Violet (in other words, it is also called saintpaulia) is a special houseplant that is very popular and in demand among a huge number of gardeners and housewives. In general, these flowers have long been loved by many flower growers, especially those who are trying to expand the variety of indoor plantings. In many countries, the flowering of violets is becoming a symbol of the fact that such a long-awaited spring has finally come.

Although the inflorescences of violets are very small, they are incredibly graceful and delicate, and some even romanticize the image of this plant in this regard. Indoor violets do not take up much space, they are very compact, while they grow quite calmly on window sills, without causing inconvenience or allergic reactions.

At the same time, the violet is also unpretentious, if we talk about care and agricultural technology, but still there are some subtleties, observing which you can achieve an even more outstanding and vivid result. It is necessary to love the plant, to know what it likes and what it is completely unable to tolerate within the framework of indoor home care. Only due to this, violets will bloom continuously at home with a gardener and will be incredibly bright, real stars of any apartment, room or window sill.

In this article, we will talk in more detail about the intricacies of growing a plant, how to properly care for it, what kind of soil is needed for violets. We will also talk about the most different ways of watering violets and, in general, how to create all the most favorable conditions for the plant to feel as comfortable and simple as possible. Of course, this is very important for violets, and it is important for the gardener himself, so that he understands that all the efforts made in growing violets were not at all in vain.

Violet: home care

I would like to start with the fact that the violet is a flower that is great for warmth. Therefore, it is optimal to set the temperature in the room where the plant is located from twenty to twenty-five degrees Celsius. If in the summer, then during flowering, the temperature will tend to thirty degrees, then the violet can show with all its appearance that such conditions do not suit it, and that it suffers from obvious overheating. So at any time of the year, the florist needs to take care of this.

Flowers in case of unfavorable temperature climate will become shallow and very wilted, the color of both leaves and flowers will not be so bright. In general, the varietal features of any violet, even variegated, even one-color, will still disappear, and because of this, the plant will become completely non-decorative. It is worth using any devices and methods to reduce the temperature in the summer. These can be air conditioners or split systems, fans. It is elementary to periodically ventilate the room to prevent hot air from stagnating.

It should also be borne in mind that violets do not tolerate sudden changes in temperature in the best way, and they absolutely cannot stand drafts, strong gusts of wind, scorching rays of the sun - all this immediately affects the external characteristics of the plant, as well as how it feels.

In winter, the temperature must also be kept at twenty degrees. It is permissible for the temperature to drop to sixteen degrees, but not lower, otherwise the violet will begin to freeze and finally get sick and die.

As you can see, in principle, a violet can withstand some changes, but only under the supervision of a grower, and it is best to take care of establishing favorable temperature limits, otherwise there is a great risk of losing not one plant, but all the variegated plantings at once.

Violet pots are best placed on the windowsills of those windows that have an east or west orientation. In summer, you can also choose northern window sills, but in winter it is best the other way around - put violets on windows that face south. If the florist's windows do not have a European standard, then it is recommended to remove the container with the flower from the windowsills with the onset of winter.

The pots are placed on adjacent shelves or tables, it is also worth using phytolamps or fluorescent lamps in order to provide additional lighting for the violets. You can also place the containers on styrofoam or wooden supports, which should be about three centimeters thick. Then the root system on the windowsill will not overcool, which means the plant will be safe.

Otherwise, hypothermia of the violet can lead to the fact that the flower refuses to bloom, will be nondescript, small and weak.

Let's talk a little about humidity air. You should know that in their natural habitat, violets take root well in places with high air humidity. If the air in the house is very dry, then it is recommended to increase the humidity to an average of 50% or 60% by all available means and forces of flower growers.

It is recommended to put a container with a violet on a pallet, into which a certain amount of moistened expanded clay or pebbles is previously poured. Also, the florist must carefully ensure that the bottom of the container with the flower does not come into contact with moisture, otherwise this can lead to the fact that moisture will penetrate into the area of ​​the root system, stagnate there, and the roots will gradually begin to rot.

You can also use a household humidifier if the grower has this technique. But it may not be affordable for everyone, and in this case it is best, of course, to increase the humidity of the air manually.

It is best not to spray violet leaf plates - this method of moisturizing is completely unsuitable for them. Leaves that have pubescence will retain a certain amount of water on themselves, which is why fungal diseases will develop in such an environment. Agree, this is absolutely not what is needed for such a delicate and fragile plant.

It is also dangerous to spray a violet from a spray bottle at night: at this time it becomes even cooler in the room, which means that the moisture will not evaporate yet. In autumn and winter, in order to increase the humidity of the air, it will be enough to hang and spread moistened towels around the containers with violets so that the plant feels as comfortable as possible. Towels should also be spread out on batteries.

Violet is a plant that loves complete and very good lighting, but there is one caveat - the lighting must be diffused. If direct sunlight falls on the violet, this can lead to the fact that the plant will receive severe burns, it will begin to ache, and the leaves will crumble.

But if the violet does not receive the amount of lighting it needs, then the violet will not bloom for a long time at all. In order for a flower to grow and develop normally, to look decorative, it is necessary to give it full and high-quality lighting from 10 to 14 hours a day.

It is also worth remembering that if a violet in its variety and appearance has dense and very dense, thick foliage, then the lighting should be even longer and more intense than the lighting of those violets that have light colored and curly leaves.So much here depends not only on the needs of the violet itself as a flower species, but also on how a particular variety, subspecies reacts to lighting conditions, to its intensity and the number of hours per day.

If there is a need for this, then the gardener is best taken care of to arrange artificial lighting for the flowers using fluorescent lamps and phytolamps. LED strips are also great for lighting. Violets also grow and develop well under such light, although many growers say that LED lamps have no useful power.

Lighting can affect the shape of a flower rosette - everyone knows that the leaves are drawn precisely towards the light. So sometimes the pot should be turned over so that the bushes turn out to be lush and compact, in the correct, symmetrical shape. The external characteristics of violets, which speak of the health of the bush, will also depend on this - the foliage will be thick and juicy, the flowering will be bright and very lush - all that is exactly what many gardeners dream about, who plant violets in large quantities on the windowsills.

Night darkness can also be extremely important if we are talking about the growth of flowers - the leaves can become faded, and the violet will refuse to bloom, turn into an ordinary nondescript bush that will be completely inconspicuous.

Of course, further we will touch upon the question of what methods of irrigation are, how to take care of a high-quality soil mixture for planting violets. In addition, we will tell you the details of how to properly cut violets in order to preserve the beauty and decorativeness of flowers and bushes, as well as prolong their flowering and incredible appearance.

All this is important to know not only for inexperienced gardeners and flower growers, but also for those who already have experience in growing a plant, but at the same time they would like to diversify their possibilities, would like to have as many different varieties and varieties of indoor violets as possible, which really decorate any house, apartment and room.

How to water violets at home

Any florist should approach the watering process as responsibly as possible. You can not rush from one extreme to another - in this procedure it is worth adhering to the golden mean, since otherwise any deviations can negatively affect the colors. Watering violets must be carried out with settled water, which has reached room temperature. You can also take boiled water, water from the filter, since after treatment some hazardous and harmful substances have evaporated from the water, and the salts have decomposed and precipitated, so that they are no longer dangerous for the plant.

About once every four weeks, the water for irrigation can be slightly acidified; for this, flower growers use acetic or citric acid. The temperature at the expense of which watering is carried out is also very important, and its quality is important.

If the water is very hot or very cold, then the violet root system will experience only stress from such watering, the roots can be very badly damaged as a result of this, and, as a result, the bush can wither and die after a while. For indoor violets, the traditional method of irrigation is completely unsuitable, which consists in the fact that water is introduced directly into the outlet.

More experienced gardeners say that water should never fall on the leaves or on the growing point of the violet. If she is there, then this can provoke the development of a fungal disease. In addition, if wet spots remain on the leaves, then very soon sunburn may form in this place, and in particular this can happen even in winter, although it would seem that at this time the sun is not so active.

But do not forget that no matter what the flower is, all its systems are very delicate, and therefore it is imperative to look after it and take care of it, paying attention even to such non-obvious subtleties.It is best to water the violet in a slightly different way. We will talk about them further.

So, the first way to water violets is through pallet. Settled water at room temperature is poured into a pallet or other container in which a flower pot is located. The depth should be about a quarter of the height of the entire pot. They put the pot with the plant in the water and wait about thirty minutes for the soil to be properly saturated with moisture, but at the same time there is no excess, due to which the roots may begin to react too negatively.

Watering violets through the pallet

Further, the grower himself will notice that the required level of soil moisture has already been achieved - the soil will acquire a dark shade. If you combine watering with top dressing, then in addition to moisture, the flower will also receive a mineral complex of necessary substances and trace elements, which means that in the future the grower will not need to spend too much time on this.

If the grower has a wide pallet, then it is possible to simultaneously put not one pot with a flower, but several at once. But here it is important to keep in mind that all plants are completely healthy, otherwise a sore or fungus from one violet will spread to all the others in this way.

Water quality is very important and should be treated responsibly. If you water violets with the most ordinary water, which has not yet had time to settle, then this can lead to the fact that impurities begin to form in the soil mixture, which will negatively affect the quality of growth and flowering of the flower itself.

Because of this, the soil will become saline, it will begin to exfoliate, the root system will cease to perceive useful microelements, but it will become weaker due to poor-quality water for irrigation. Further, a white bloom will appear on the soil, which will just indicate that useless and even dangerous substances have accumulated in the soil.

Violation of the quality of the water used will be more likely a disadvantage of such a method of irrigation as through a sump. It is only in the hands of the grower himself to fix everything so that the plant feels comfortable again.

Drip irrigation - for its implementation, it is recommended to use a watering can with a very narrow spout. You can also take the pear-shaped syringe available at pharmacies. They are necessary in order to make it easier to get to the soil for watering, but at the same time not to touch the outlet, leaves and other parts of the violet itself. The growth point also does not need to be poured, it is quite vulnerable, it can begin to rot.

If the grower does not have a watering can or a syringe at hand, and watering must be done right at this very minute, then you can take a simple plastic bottle, make several holes in the lid and insert the tubes there. Water one drop at a time exactly until excess water accumulates and begins to flow directly into the pan through the drainage holes that were made in the violet container.

Watering is stopped, they wait about ten minutes, after which all excess water is removed from the pan. It should be borne in mind that if, nevertheless, a certain amount of liquid got on the leaves of the violet, then there is nothing to worry about. The main thing is not to leave moisture directly, but to carefully remove it with a napkin, and the plant is again perfectly safe.

The third method of watering violets is immersion method. If the days turned out to be sultry and hot, then during the next watering, you can simply immerse the violets in a basin filled with settled water at room temperature. The immersion continues for an hour, after which the plant will look rested, saturated with moisture, and the root system will also cool down to a temperature that is comfortable for it.

Then the excess water gently flows off the plant, and the violet itself returns to its usual place. This, in principle, is the essence of the immersion method.The main thing is not to overexpose the plant in moisture, and use high-quality water, otherwise the bush will feel uncomfortable, it will experience a shock when immersed if the water is very hot or too icy.

Wick irrigation violets - sounds interesting, don't you agree? As a "wick" you can use a lace or a not very thick strip, which consists of cotton fabric. The wick should be passed with one tip into the drainage hole that was made on the bottom of the pot. The other end of the wick is dipped into a container with liquid, which is intended for irrigation.

Wick watering violets

The flower is installed on top of a container with water, due to the capillary effect, moisture will rise through the wick inside and penetrate into the root system itself, saturating the plant. The essence of this method is that the violet will be fed with exactly the amount of moisture that it needs in a specific period of time.

The level of moisture in the soil mixture will always remain stable, and here it is no longer the grower, but the plant itself, which will regulate how much it costs to drink water in a given period of time, under certain temperature conditions and circumstances. You can familiarize yourself with some of the videos that are laid out on the network by experienced gardeners and florists in order to just demonstrate the features of this wick method of irrigating violets.

But it should be borne in mind that this method may not be suitable for all plants, since it also has its own limitations, to which we cannot just close our eyes and ignore them:

• the wick method is suitable for watering plants only in the warm season, since in winter the water in the container will cool too quickly, and, accordingly, the water temperature will already be unsuitable for the plant. Also, violets generally cannot stand the root system suddenly being in the cold - they immediately give a certain reaction to something like that with their appearance - it worsens, the flowers become faded and inconspicuous. A hypothermic root system has no immunity, which is why it can be susceptible to absolutely any disease;
• in order for watering to be uniform, very small containers are suitable, their size should be no more than 7x7 centimeters. If the soil receives uneven moisture, then the green mass will grow abundantly, while damage will be done to the flowering - it will stop, or the flowers will be very faded and weak.

Soil for violets

Of course, the question that worries many flower growers is which soil is best suited for indoor violets. The violet takes root best in looser and lighter soil, which should be perfectly breathable and moisture should pass through well. It is important that the root system of the plant is not deficient and that it develops correctly.

It is also important that the soil can retain moisture, but at the same time it does it very carefully so that the root system does not start to rot and a variety of diseases and bacteria do not develop in it. It is also very important that the acidity index is within the normal range.

The violet adapts perfectly in slightly acidic soils, if the acidity is increased or decreased, then the flower can stop the normal assimilation of nutrients and minerals, and because of this, starvation occurs. As a result, the violet is stressed, the processes of growth and development slow down, the flower becomes completely unattractive and inconspicuous. It is precisely from such subtleties that in the future all successful plantings and a decorative result are formed.

The growth of violets will slow down, the buds will fall off, which have not even had time to open. If the soil turns out to be too acidic, then the young leaves will gradually curl, deform, and gradually they crumble.

As for the chemical composition of the planting, the presence of such substances as nitrogen and phosphorus, their more complex compounds, as well as potassium salts and microelements, a number of macroelements is mandatory for violets. Iron, calcium and boron must be present, since they contribute to the growth of the green mass of the plant, it begins to feel much more comfortable and stronger.

Of course, it is worth remembering that the soil can become the environment that will carry out the prevention of diseases. More experienced gardeners and florists give their advice and recommendations. For example, the soil can be treated with a manganese solution, or phytosporin can be used for these purposes, which not only saturates the soil, but also increases the plant's immunity.

The violet prefers to grow in small containers, but the soil inside them can be depleted very quickly and be deprived of nutrients. So the grower needs to feed the plants in a timely manner, as well as transplant the blackberries in new containers on time, so that the plant has where to feed itself with all the most necessary substances and microelements.

It is best to use ready-made soil, which is sold in specialized stores and nurseries, and which is just intended specifically for Saintpaulias and indoor, home violet crops. It is advisable to be sure to read the composition of the soil and make sure that this is exactly the soil that is ideal for violets.

Unfortunately, very often the purchased soil mixture may not be of the best quality. Experienced flower growers recommend adding a little perlite, vermiculite, coconut fiber to the ready-made soil, since they are high-quality disintegrants, and can significantly improve the condition of the soil, its quality.

This means that the violet will also feel comfortable. But it is worth adhering to the measure here, because sometimes it is possible with such additives to provoke rotting of the root system, and then it will be almost impossible to save violets from such unfavorable conditions.

In general, the gardener can cook on his own soil mixture, by mixing some very important ingredients for this. For violets, the following substances are needed and, accordingly, proportions:

1. high-moor peat - one part of it will be required;
2. one piece of coniferous land. But here it is worth keeping in mind that coniferous land can be harvested independently. In fact, this is the top layer of needles, which is located under conifers and shrubs;
3. three pieces of leafy land;
4. two parts of sod land;
5. coarse river sand, you can also use one part of perlite if there is no sand.

We must not forget about drainage, because due to it, you can maintain the health and well-being of the planting. Expanded clay or charcoal, which is supplied in pieces and has a different fraction, is perfect as drainage - but you can use charcoal of the same fraction, this will not make the plant worse.

Thanks to these additives, it will be possible to regulate the level of soil moisture, as well as to remove or adsorb some harmful impurities that tend to accumulate in the soil as a result of its oversaturation with various substances, or due to the fact that the irrigation rules at some point were violated by the gardener.

Biohumus Is a substance that has also proven itself remarkably as an additive to the soil for violets. Experienced gardeners say that biohumus can be used as a component for preparing a substrate just for violets, this requires about forty percent of vermicompost and sixty percent of baking powder, so that over time the vermicompost does not turn into stone and, accordingly, does not harm the planting of flowers.

Substrate acidity - the value is far from constant, and over time it can change noticeably.Any changes in acidity can lead to changes in the appearance of the plantings. The shape and color of the leaves can change markedly, the flower begins to grow much more slowly, and the flowering stops. All this should attract the attention of growers and give a sign that something is wrong with the flower, and the reason may be changes in acidity.

Acidity can be measured thanks to a special device, which is just intended for this, if the gardener does not have such a device, which is quite natural, then you can check the level of acidity in the soil in some other ways.

We, of course, will now tell you what these methods are.

1. You can take a couple of containers, no matter what material these containers will be made of - it can be ceramics or glass. A small amount of slightly moistened soil is placed in them, a little vinegar is dripped into the first container. If the environment in the soil is alkaline, then the earth will begin to hiss a little;
2. A little soil is also poured into the second container, and a little soda is sprinkled on top of it. If the soil is acidic, then small gas bubbles will begin to emerge, which will immediately report this;
3. If the grower did not receive absolutely any reactions from his actions, then this will indicate that the soil at his disposal is completely neutral.

If a grower wants to reduce the acidity level in the soil, then he can safely do it on his own and at home. To do this, it is enough to use dolomite flour. And if the acidity should be slightly increased, then organics are ideally suitable for this - for example, peat. The main thing is to carry out these procedures very carefully, to do it in accordance with all conditions and rules, otherwise you can spoil the quality of the soil.

Violet: how to choose the right pot

Violet is a plant that does not really like large containers or pots. Conventionally, the violet is divided into several types - these are large, medium and miniature plants. In all of them, the root system has a superficial location, and therefore, for planting violets, a large amount of substrate is generally not required.

In nature, a violet can generally grow in rocky soils, and it feels completely calm in such conditions. Therefore, even if the violet turned out to be voluminous and very large, then a small pot, the diameter of which barely reaches twelve centimeters, will suffice for it.

If the violet is very young, then in general, very small pots, the diameter of which is no more than five centimeters, can suit them, since they are distinguished by their lightness and durability, and, plus the grower himself, these containers are very inexpensive, which means they will be available to absolutely everyone. who decides to purchase them.

But such containers have a minus. It lies in the fact that such containers practically do not allow air to pass through. Therefore, it is necessary to take care of manually creating drainage holes so that the roots are ventilated, and so that excess moisture does not accumulate in the pot, but comes out of them. Air permeability and water permeability are important factors for the development and growth of violets, and should not be forgotten.

If the grower only has a large container or a large pot, and the gardener has planted a very small or medium violet in it, then most likely it will not give normal growth and flowering.

This is due to several significant reasons that you need to pay attention to:

• if the flower grows in a very large pot, then it will primarily increase the green mass, and this will cause severe damage to the flowering. So this is one of the first reasons why violets cannot be planted in large containers and pots;
• until the root system unravels over the entire volume of the substrate, then the violet will not show absolutely no flowering and normal growth.You will have to wait up to two years before the grower even notices the flowering. Not many can wait so long, because in fact, many growers know about the wonderful properties of violets, and therefore they are trying to get this unsurpassed result as soon as possible;
• excess soil, which remains not braided by the root system, can remain moist for a very long time, as a result of which the substrate becomes acidic. Such an environment becomes favorable for the development of bacteria and fungal spores, which can provoke diseases of the root system. Also, pests and insects love to breed there. If this aspect is not discovered in time and this problem is not resolved, then this will lead to the flower dying, and the grower himself, of course, will not have time to save it. As a result, the death of a huge number of plantings, on which the florist spent not only physical, but also material resources.

Can be used plastic pots that are sold in large quantities in specialty stores. Plastic containers also have a ribbed surface, which allows the container to be positioned slightly in an elevated position above the pallet. This aspect helps the root system to be saturated with oxygen, which means that the roots will develop correctly, and the plant itself will demonstrate an excellent result of growth and development.

Ceramic the pots are covered with special glaze, they look quite decorative. But still, they have their drawback, which is that ceramics cannot pass oxygen, which means that the root system does not breathe at all. In addition, ceramic pots are very heavy, and you need an impressive amount to purchase them.

If the grower really likes the external characteristics that ceramic containers have, then he can purchase them, but stop his choice on those pots that were not covered with glaze.

They, of course, are not as attractive and aesthetic as pots in glaze, but at the same time they can pass a sufficient amount of oxygen and air through their walls, and violets will feel more comfortable and best in them. But you can also manually, independently, eliminate some aesthetic imperfections, for this you can buy a pots or some kind of beautiful pot, in which a ceramic container with a pot will be placed. They will cover all the external imperfections of an unglazed ceramic pot underneath.

Agree, this will be a good way out, besides, here the florist will be able to independently choose for himself what pots he wants to see on his site, why he likes them, and in what style his plantings will be, especially considering that rooms, apartments and premises, where violets are planted, there can be different architectural and design solutions.

Fertilizer for violets

When violets are still very small, then they should be fed with nitrogen-containing substances, because in this case the green mass will grow much faster, and the leaf rosette will form as a full-fledged planting that will delight the eye. Violets, which are almost ready to bloom., Must also be fed with fertilizers, which are dominated by substances such as phosphorus and potassium.

In addition, flowers always need vitamin saturation, and they must also receive a sufficient amount of other microelements and macronutrients so that the flowering is abundant, intense and very decorative. Therefore, more experienced flower growers advise to purchase complex fertilizers in liquid form, there should be a lot of components there. These fertilizers, which the florist chooses to feed the plants, should be designed just for ornamental flowering indoor plants, to which violets are directly related.

As for the frequency of top dressing, then this should be done not more often than twice a month.Top dressing can be combined with irrigation, especially with the method where irrigation is carried out through the pan, since in this way all the most necessary substances and components will penetrate into the root system much faster.

You cannot take fertilizers in too high doses and concentrations, it is better not to feed the plant than to overfeed, because from overfeeding it can die, or its appearance will deteriorate too much, and the flower will not be easy to restore. You should also not neglect top dressing.

In this case, by its appearance, the plant will immediately show that something is wrong with it, the growth of violets will become slow, almost imperceptible, the leaves and stems will cease to be fresh and elastic - they will fade, flowering will stop, or it will remain, but it will very weak, practically nondescript.

After planting violets or transplanting them into a new container, the nutrients from the new substrate disappear after about two months, and after this time, the grower should be ready to re-saturate the soil mixture so that the plant again receives all the necessary trace elements, vitamins, nutrients. Without them, violets will last only a short time, and may generally die within a very short time.

In general, it cannot be said that violets are very demanding for some types of plant feeding. If the grower does not have specialized fertilizing specifically for violets, then they can be safely fertilized with the help of complex fertilizers that are intended for vegetables.

The fact is that they also include all the necessary substances and trace elements - nitrogen and phosphorus, potassium and iron, and many other substances that play an important role in the growth and development, flowering of violets.

They provide the synthesis of enzymes, which just make it possible to competently and rationally use the energy of the sun. Vitamins and amino acids perfectly stimulate planting, the root system becomes more branched and stronger, the plant becomes larger and more decorative.

But it is worth stopping feeding or cutting them back if the plant is sick or weakened due to the fact that at some point the violet was attacked by sucking pests. During temperature extremes, it should also not be applied under the plant, since at this time it is unlikely that it will be able to normally perceive feeding, because all its strength will be spent on withstanding temperature extremes and strengthening its immunity.

And after planting or transplanting violets to a new place in a new container for two months, it is best not to feed the plant, since the violet will be fed with those substances and trace elements that are contained in the substrate, and while it does not use all of them, additional fertilization will be considered as overfeeding.

As a prophylaxis for certain fungi, viral and bacterial diseases, it is sometimes recommended to water violets with a solution based on phytosporin. Watering is carried out once a month, it also effectively affects the fact that the plant does not form putrefactive formations.

The drug can be purchased at a specialized gardening store, and you can also buy it at the nursery, where the planting materials are purchased. The package contains instructions on how to properly dilute the drug, besides, it can be stored in a diluted form for a long time.

One package is enough to water the plants throughout the season and to protect the violets from any misfortunes that can be very dangerous for these plants throughout the season.

Indoor violets, as we have already indicated, grow and develop best in very small, very compact containers. Experienced growers know very well that the optimal pot size should be no more than a third of a violet rosette.

The stock of soil is also small, therefore, as the plant grows, it is recommended to plant violets in larger pots and containers. Older specimens will no longer need to grow in size and will therefore continue to thrive in standard sized pots.

About a third of the soil can be removed from under the roots, but it is replaced with a fresh and more nutritious substrate, which will just become the basis for feeding the violets in the future. Observing these elementary rules, you can not only save the life of the plantings, but also strengthen them, make them very bright, memorable, different from many other plants that also grow in indoor conditions.

When should a violet be transplanted

Violets usually, with all their appearance, can indicate that they simply need to be transplanted into a new container or into a new soil. This is evidenced by some facts and signs, and we will now list them:

• the plant begins to grow very slowly, and this is noticeable with the naked eye;
• a white bloom begins to appear on the surface of the soil, which is more like salt, as well as other signs that agricultural technology has been violated, and that the plant needs to be transplanted to a new place of growth;
• the lower part of the trunk at the violet is exposed, and it must be deepened. It is best to generally transplant the plant to an already new location in a new container;
• the root system has filled the entire space of the container, and it does not have enough space to grow normally further.

When the violet is at the stage of abundant flowering, then it should be transplanted only in the most extreme cases, if there is no other way out. Usually, in such cases, the florist does not focus on the fact that the flower will not be able to bloom normally at this moment - here we are talking about preserving the planting, since otherwise it may simply die.

A healthy plant should not be transplanted at the moment when it blooms, since at this time there is a high probability that the flower will experience severe stress, and flowering will have to wait for a very long time. In general, of course, in this case, it is better to wait until the real flowering of violets is completed. You should not transplant the flower in winter - it is better to plan this procedure in the spring.

But at any other time, the violet can be completely safely transplanted into another container, and the grower can be sure that he will not cause absolutely any harm or damage to the plant.

Violets can be transplanted in different ways - transshipment, with full or partial soil replacement. Here the gardener himself chooses, depending on his skills and abilities, and on what result he wants to get from the transplant.

We, in turn, will tell you about each method of transplanting violets, so that the grower has a more complete picture of these processes, and so that he can choose a method in accordance with his skills and abilities, in accordance with his experience and knowledge.

We do not urge you to use only one of these methods, because the transplant is largely determined by the general condition of the plant, which in no case should be forgotten.

Let's start with a description of the transplant by transshipment method. The root system of violets is not very well developed, sometimes it is better not to free the root system from the old clod of earth at all, otherwise it is highly likely that the roots will be damaged. Then it is best to use this method of plant transplantation. In this case, the new container must be selected so that it is slightly larger than the previous pot.

A small drainage layer is laid out on the bottom, which will remove excess moisture from the container, and a layer of the renewed substrate is laid out on top. Next, the florist carefully closes up an earthen lump, which also has a violet root system, and this must be done very carefully, all the gaps are poured on the sides, and a new substrate is used. Then the flower is watered with warm, settled water, put it in a permanent place, on which it will then grow without any effort on the part of the grower himself.

Transplant from soil replacement - here we will give step-by-step instructions so that the grower is more clear what is required of him. The instruction will be especially useful for inexperienced flower growers.The reason for the transplant may be a painful condition of the plant, and in this case, the violet should be urgently transplanted into another container, for this using a method such as completely replacing the old substrate with a fresh one.

The transplant is used not only for young plants, but also for older violets. This method has the advantage that when the root system is freed from old soil, the florist can examine the state of the root system with his own eyes; he can immediately remove damaged or diseased roots, as well as remove the lower peduncles and old peduncles, which will no longer give absolutely no result in growth and development, but they will interfere with the plant, make its appearance completely unattractive.

In this part of the article, we will tell you in order how to make such a transplant, preserving the plant and not causing additional harm to it:

1. the substrate is moistened, because it will be much easier to remove it from the old container;
2. then a new container of the required size is prepared in advance. If the grower decided not to change the container and use the one that was before, then it must be ideally cleaned of salt deposits or other signs that something had also grown there before. Also, the container is thoroughly disinfected to kill all bacteria and all pests;
3. a drainage layer is laid out at the very bottom - it can be a layer of ordinary expanded clay. But first it is also disinfected - for this, it is doused with either a manganese solution or boiling water;
4. a layer of fresh soil mixture is smoothed onto the drainage layer, a slide must be made in the center of the container, then a flower will be placed in it;
5. the root system is carefully freed from the old substrate and inspected for damage or pests. If the grower finds rotten or damaged parts of the roots, then they should be very carefully removed, and the wounds should be powdered with crushed coal. If the damage is very abundant and serious, then healthy roots must also be treated using fungicides, which are just necessary to fight fungi and rot.

The root system of the plant is placed in a new pot, it is filled with fresh substrate down to the lower leaves, the pot should be shaken a little so that the soil fills the container evenly, without missing a single void.

The container with the violet is left in partial shade for about a day, so that during this time the flower has time to adapt to completely new environmental conditions, and so that its wounds have time to heal. Further, the flower can be watered, added to watering fungicides to strengthen the root system. If necessary, you can add a little more fresh soil, especially if it begins to settle and expose the stem of the plant.

The transplant may not be complete, but with partial substitution of the substrate. In this case, it is best to do this for younger plants. It is assumed that the violets are planted in a new container of a slightly larger size, the transplant should also be carried out in accordance with the rules that we have listed for a complete replacement of the soil, but only the soil that can crumble itself is shaken off, and the rest of the substrate may remain on root system, there is absolutely nothing to worry about.

Everything that has been retained, together with the roots, is sent to a new container, and it is also sprinkled on top with fresh soil mixture. Agree, both methods, if you follow all the rules, are perfect for those flower growers who do not yet have much experience in this activity, but they would like to improve their knowledge and skills in planting and transplanting indoor violets.

Violet: how to prune the leaves and why you need to do it

Sometimes it is not only possible, but also necessary to trim the leaves of violets.It is worth starting with the fact that the rosette of indoor violets looks quite attractive, and in this state it is very important to maintain it throughout the planting life cycle. It should be proportional, and should also consist of three rows of sheet plates. The center of growth should not be thickened with foliage, otherwise it means that the planting rules were inexorably violated.

If, nevertheless, this happened, then it is recommended to remove the lower leaves, which gradually began to turn yellow and deform. Tearing off the leaves is not difficult at all - you need to press with your fingernail at the very base, and then unscrew the leaf and pick it up. If there are several such leaves at once, then the flower's trunk may become bare after the leaves are removed. Then you can add a little fresh soil mixture to the soil, transplant the flower a little deeper than it was located before.

Pruning of violets is assigned by the florist in several cases. Among them are situations such as removing excess leaves in order to stimulate a brighter and more lush flowering of the plants themselves; to remove the top of a violet, which is already aged, then it will rejuvenate, and the florist with the help of such a procedure will give the plant a new life.

Also, pruning is carried out just in order to remove damaged or diseased leaves and shoots, and so that the disease does not begin to spread to healthy parts of the plant.

Some growers are wondering what to do with the violet when its flowering stops. During flowering, wilted and dried flower stalks should be removed from the plant so that they do not interfere with the blooming of new flowers, and so as not to spoil the overall appearance of the plant.

When the very last flower has bloomed, then the violet must be given some time so that it can rest and gain a little new strength. Damaged, diseased leaves, leaves that have dried up - they must be removed from the bush, it is also worth taking care of the plant so that it recovers faster - the lower rows of leaves at the outlet break off in accordance with the pruning rules, it is also better to move the violet into a new container with renewed soil.

If the florist did not initially plan this event, then it is worth feeding the flower using fertilizers with a high nitrogen content for these purposes, so that the violet begins to grow new leaves instead of what the florist diligently cut off in order to renew the plant.

Violet care in winter

In winter, correct and correct care should also be organized for the violet. To do this, you should adhere to several rules and conditions:

• the flower should receive sufficient lighting with phyto-lamps and fluorescent lighting. It can also be fluorescent lamps that shine for 12-14 hours a day. The dark time of the day for violets should be no more than eight hours, otherwise the plant will begin to show with all its appearance a lack of lighting;
• the air temperature in the room must be maintained at twenty degrees. In this case, sharp drops and fluctuations in temperature should be excluded. There should be no sharp gusts of wind; during ventilation, it is also necessary to exclude any possibility that drafts will begin;
• watering the violets is required regularly, making it warm, settled water. Watering is carried out up to three times a week, everything will depend on the general condition of the plant;
• the humidity in the room where the violet grows should be increased. Household appliances, containers with water, pallets filled with moistened expanded clay or pebbles are best suited for this. In general, flower growers can in this case go to absolutely any tricks so that the plant is in comfortable conditions for themselves;
• on cold windowsills under violets, it is best to install plastic or wooden coasters, the thickness of which will be at least three centimeters.The roots of the flower will thus be protected from hypothermia, which means the violet will grow and develop normally in such conditions;
• violet leaves in no case should touch the cold glass surface of windows, and the florist himself should monitor this.

In general, summing up everything that we have described in this article, and what we talked about, we can conclude that the grower will not only get a lot of experience in caring for violets, but also real pleasure. Receiving everything that the flower needs, in gratitude it will delight the grower with its bright and decorative flowering, and not once, but several times a year.

A delicate aroma emanates from the flowers, they can be of different shapes and sizes, depending on the variety and species. Therefore, violets are great both for experienced flower growers and for those who have absolutely no experience and knowledge in growing such plants, but they would like to try their luck and get an incredibly bright and decorative result.