About growing melons in a greenhouse

Before starting to grow melon in greenhouses, you need to familiarize yourself with the intricacies of this process. This article will help both those who want to know how to get a generous harvest of melons, and those who doubt whether it is worth taking on this business.

The pros and cons of growing melons in a greenhouse

Since all varieties of melons are quite thermophilic, they grow better in greenhouses than without shelter. Let's talk about the pros and cons of growing this crop in a shelter.

Benefits:

- due to the stability of the microclimate in greenhouses, there is a huge probability of fruit ripening;

- competent improvement of greenhouses facilitates cultivation work;

- the weather does not at all affect the growth of the culture and does not throw up troubles for gardeners (for example, due to the wind in open soil, the fruits can turn over and confuse the whip);

- under cover, fruits are not very susceptible to various diseases and attack of harmful insects;

- you can get a harvest in any climatic zone of Russia;

- the crop grown in the greenhouse is sweeter and more juicy.

Disadvantages:

- a fairly high price for a greenhouse building and work on its installation;

- financial expenses for equipment that maintains the required temperature regime and lighting;

- manual pollination is required as there are no insects in greenhouses.

About preparing the greenhouse for sowing

Melons and gourds feel equally great both in a film and in a polycarbonate greenhouse. Before starting preparatory work with the soil, check the condition of the greenhouse structure. There should be no gaps, since a heat-loving culture cannot tolerate drafts. Trellis (2 pcs / 1m2), mesh fabric and fastenings for garters are required. The greenhouse economy must be equipped with sufficient sources to maintain the desired temperature and lighting. Consider treating your greenhouse shelter with a fungicide compound.

Proper preparation of a greenhouse is the first stage in obtaining a good melon harvest, and a lot depends on it.

About growing melon from seedlings

Melon seedlings are sold in specialized stores. But if you want a special variety or are in doubt about what you are offered, perhaps you can start growing from seeds yourself. Let's talk about this in more detail.

About which varieties are suitable for greenhouses

Melon yield usually depends on which variety you choose. You should take time to study the varieties and decide on your requirements.

Usually, for greenhouse shelters and greenhouses, they choose:

1. "Lada". In this variety, as in other mid-season varieties, the melons begin to ripen at about 80-85 days from the moment of strong shoots; melon oval, yellow-orange, the surface has a mesh pattern; fruit weight - up to 1.5 kg. Lada is resistant to various fungi.
2. "Mallet". This early-ripening variety has a juicy-sweet pulp and thin skin, the fruits begin to ripen 60-65 days from the moment of strong shoots; oval melon, bright yellow, weight - up to 3 kg."Mallet" is known for its productivity and is resistant to various fungi.
3. "Voller". This early maturing variety has tender, sweet flesh and thin skin, the fruits begin to ripen about 62-65 days from the moment of strong shoots; the melon is yellow-brown, the chamber with the seeds is not large, the weight of the fruit is up to 3 kg. "Voller" is distinguished by excellent transportation, excellent storage, and also by the fact that it is not afraid of powdery mildew, anthracnose and fusarium.

If you live in the North and want to plant a melon, then choose "Barnaulka", "Amber", "Altai", etc.

How to find quality seeds

When choosing seeds, you should pay attention to the varieties and hybrids that give good yields in your climatic conditions, and the ripening time. If you want to grow melons in greenhouse conditions, then you cannot do without early and mid-season varieties. Consider the culture's ability to actively grow and bear fruit on chernozem soils.

Seeds must be carefully selected for your soil type. You will be able to plant your seeds only after a few years. This is not the case with hybrids.

It is best to buy melon seeds from specialized stores. By examining the seed packages, you will learn about the timing of sowing and planting seeds in the soil. Do not buy seeds that are near the end of their expiration date!

Those who tried to deal with melons and took seeds from neighbors and acquaintances know that after three years the fruits become frail (prone to degeneration). To solve this problem, change the seeds after 3-4 years or cross varieties with each other and get hybrids.

How to sow correctly

Seeds are planted from a harvest three to four years ago. If you take seeds from last year's harvest, the result will be dismal.

To begin with, the seeds are hardened and processed:

- the planting material is sorted out and only healthy and dense is left;

- the seeds are soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes (those that have surfaced are thrown away);

- after 30 minutes, washed in clean water;

- then the seeds are hardened (placed in water at a temperature of 55-65 degrees for 2 hours, then dried for a day at a temperature of 18-23 degrees, at the end they keep the seeds in the refrigerator for 15 to 17 hours and overnight at room temperature).

So, the preparatory measures are over, and you can proceed to sowing in permanent soil. If the greenhouse building is not ready, the seeds are planted in small peat pots and kept on the windowsill. Also, temporary planting can be carried out in other containers, having previously made holes in the bottom (for example, plastic glasses).

Composition of the earth: 90% peat, 10% sand. Wood ash is also added to the soil mixture at the rate of 1 glass per 10 liters of soil).

A second option for a suitable soil is possible: soil and humus (3: 1)

Place 2-3 seeds in containers filled with soil (planting depth approx. 20 mm). Cover the landing with plastic wrap. At a daytime temperature of 23-26 degrees, and at night - 17-19, shoots will appear soon.

Next, you need to choose one of the strongest and healthiest sprouts. It will be the main one. The remaining sprouts are cut under a tiny root. Attention: weak shoots do not pull out, as you can damage the root system of the main one.

Seedling care

An important part of caring for newly hatched sprouts is soil moisture. Watering should be done so that moisture does not get on the greens. The surface of the soil should be covered with sand to avoid the development of Blackfoot disease.

As soon as a couple of leaves appeared, it is time to apply complex fertilizers (these fertilizers are applied twice, the second time - after 2 weeks).

An important stage in the care of seedlings is hardening. Before planting the seedlings in a permanent place in the greenhouse, hardening procedures are carried out. Namely: bring the temperature regime to 17 degrees during the day and 12 - at night.

As it grows, place the containers with herbs farther and farther apart to prevent them from touching.

Plant the plants in a permanent place in the greenhouse when they become stronger (5-6 leaves on each).

About the features of landing

When planting seedlings in a greenhouse, it is important to follow agrotechnical rules for soil preparation and planting dates. For one plant, an area of ​​at least 0.4 m2 should be allocated, or in other words, there should be no more than two plants per 1 m2. It is best to place the landings in a checkerboard pattern.

On soil preparation and disinfection

Melon culture loves loose, sandy and chernozem soils. Salinity and acidification of the soil must not be allowed. As a preventive measure, ash, a little chalk or limestone will come to the rescue. They are brought in and dug up the ground in the greenhouse. Interestingly, the addition of ash increases the sugar content of the melons.

In the second decade of spring, the soil should be fertilized with organic matter. For this, humus, bird droppings, rotted manure, peat or the contents of compost pits are suitable. Since organic fertilizers are degraded for some time, the plant will receive nutrition in doses and for a long time. In addition, when decomposing, organic matter generates heat, and during decomposition, the flow of oxygen for the root system increases. All this will come in handy for young immature plants.

Organic fertilizers should be distributed to a depth of about 0.3 m, by quantity - 2 kg / 1m2.

As soon as fertilizers are applied, hot watering and dusting with soil are carried out.

If necessary, the greenhouse and soil should be disinfected using:

- Agrotechnical method, in which the priority is crop rotation; with this method, the crops are replaced once every 1-2 years (when choosing this method, it is recommended to build several small greenhouses);

- Biological way, in which the priority is to increase the growth of beneficial microorganisms to create a favorable microflora; for this, special solutions are introduced into the soil (for example, Baikal or Baktofit) or the soil is steamed or frozen (a more radical method of replacing the soil layer is also used);

- Chemical method, in which there is a chemical effect on the soil; the minus of the method is that the pathogenic microflora with pests is destroyed along with the useful one, the restoration of which is carried out thanks to organic fertilizers (with manganese, sulfur, formalin, etc.); when using the chemical method, do not forget about personal protective equipment.

About the preparation of planting materials

So, you have grown and hardened seedlings. It's time to land her under the greenhouse shelter after the preparatory work with the soil and shelter.

If a decision is made to grow melon immediately in greenhouse conditions, then it is necessary:

- warm up the seeds next to the heating devices: place woven bags with seeds near the battery, or you can even put them on it if the heating temperature does not exceed 50 degrees;

- disinfect seeds using special preparations or soaking in a solution of potassium permanganate (15 minutes);

- germinate seeds using peat tablets or a roll of toilet paper, or wet gauze.

About the timing of planting

The climatic conditions of a particular region and the illumination of the greenhouse economy fully affect the planting period of a melon culture. On average, we can talk about the end of April, beginning of May; the main thing is that the soil warms up to 15 degrees, the daytime temperature does not go below 20 degrees, and the nighttime temperature does not fall below 15.

If you allow the temperature to drop below 10 degrees, then the plants will simply die.

If your greenhouse has an adjustable lighting system, heating and the possibility of high beds, then external weather conditions are not terrible for you. In this case, the time for planting seedlings varies.

About planting seedlings under a greenhouse shelter

Planting young plants in greenhouse soil is carried out strictly according to the scheme.

1. First, prepare the planting holes. The distance between the holes must be at least 0.5 meters. Leave the distance between the rows 0.7-1 meter.
2. Seedlings in pots or in some other containers are well watered.
3. Each sprout, carefully, so as not to touch the roots, is released from its pot.
4. Place the sprout in the hole so that the level of the root collar of the sprout is higher than the soil level. This is done to prevent decay.
5. The roots are covered with soil with a small hill and tamp it a little.
6. The root system of each sprout is sprinkled with river sand.
7. Cover the plants with a layer of damp paper so that the plants take root and adapt in a new place.

On the care of melons in the greenhouse industry

Melons and gourds require careful care and increased attention. Of course, it is impossible to get a good harvest of melons without spending time and effort. Let's talk about the details.

About the correct temperature

When young seedlings are planted in a greenhouse, the temperature regime should be maintained within + 25 + 30 ° С with ventilation (unless, of course, it is not so cold outside). After the plant has rooted, the temperature can be reduced by five degrees. The temperature regime at night should be maintained at least +15 degrees.

About moisture and watering

Water the melon using a drip method or a watering can with warm water. The main thing is to try not to wet the greens. It is important to remember that for this culture, waterlogging of the soil is much worse than drought. Sixty percent humidity is the limit above which it is not recommended to cross.

About lighting

Melons need lighting up to 14 hours a day. Lack of sunlight leads the crop to underdevelopment and the plant can wither away. In this case, it may be necessary to use lighting devices (special phytolamps emitting ultraviolet light). Such lamps are very useful for melons, as the plant needs ultraviolet radiation. It is also possible to use LED and fluorescent lamps.

About dressings

Due to the lack or excess of minerals in the ground, the melon can rot. Therefore, feeding should be treated responsibly.

As a complex fertilizer for melons, nitroammophoska, ammophoska, etc. are used. It is applied approximately once every 2 weeks under the very root before flowering (10 grams / 10 l of water). One plant requires 5 to 7 liters of such a solution under the root.

At the time of flowering and the formation of ovaries, superphosphates (40 g / 10 l of water) are added to the plant. One plant requires 2.5 grams of fertilizer per 1m2.

When the fruits are ripe, it's time to remember about ash. It can be scattered on the ground, or you can make a tincture from ash.

All about greenhouse pollination

If you have the opportunity to open a greenhouse during the day, then bees can do pollination. Otherwise, this process must be done by the gardener. Pollination is carried out using a male flower. Find it: it is large, and there is a bulge at the base. It is necessary to pick the male flower and hold it over the flower bowls of the female flowers. Make sure that the pollen particles get into the bowls. One male flower can pollinate four female flowers.

The process can be repeated. In order not to pluck male flowers, you can take pollen from them with a cotton swab.

About thinning

Thinning should be done when the fruit has reached the size of a hen's egg. 5-7 melons should be left on one lash, and the others should be cut off. Otherwise, there will not be enough nutrients for all the fruits, and the melons will be immature. Next, you should carefully water the beds and add complex fertilizers.

About the formation of bushes

Small melons appear not on the main stems, but on the lateral stems. In this regard, it is important to pinch the sprouts above the third leaves on the seedlings.Later, from here, the growth of the main stem will be slightly higher, and below - the side lashes.

The second stage of the formation of the bush is carried out at the moment when the length of the lashes has reached two meters. Pinch both the main stem and the side ones. If you see whips that have no fruit, they should be cut off. It is recommended to sprinkle the place of each cut with grains of charcoal. Interestingly, it is possible to adjust the number of ovaries. To do this, leave three to four ovaries at the base of the stem. Next, track the formation of the plant and remove unnecessary stepsons in time.

Harvesting and storing crops

They begin to harvest melons and gourds, making sure that the ripeness of the fruit has reached the norm. A pronounced mesh on the fruits, a uniform color and a pronounced ability of the melon to break away from the whips will tell you about this.

An early ripe variety, as a rule, can be stored for up to 2 months, a late one - up to six months. Melons with stalks (3 cm) are plucked in the morning or evening hours. The fruits are left directly on the site for 4 days with turning 4 times a day. Next, the melons are removed to a dark, cool room (it's good if this room is disinfected and whitewashed with lime).

It is better to put the fruits on shelves sprinkled with sawdust, or hang them. Storage temperature - + 3 + 4 degrees with a humidity of 80 percent.

Sort the fruits regularly to avoid spoiling them.

On diseases and pests of melons in a greenhouse shelter and on measures to combat them

Melon diseases in greenhouses are mainly associated with fungi. Fungal diseases can arise from seeds, weeds, soil, and pests.

Let's talk about the most common diseases.

Powdery mildew produces a whitish bloom on the outside of the leaves. Gradually, it spreads so that it envelops the entire leaf, after which it withers and falls.

Unlike powdery mildew in Peronosporiosis plaque appears on the underside of the leaves

When a plant becomes infected Fusarium leaves and lianas turn white. The disease spreads quickly and the melon can disappear in 14 days.

Signs Anthracnose are brown spots (often the color of rust) on the leaves. The spots have a putrid structure.

From Root rot the roots become thinner, which leads to the destruction and death of the plant.

Control measures: remove the affected areas, treat with a fungicidal solution.

Disease prevention: water sparingly, loosen the soil, remove weeds and dress the soil and seeds before planting.

Now let's note the pests of the melon.

From the melon aphid, small yellowish insects, accumulating under the leaf plates and sucking the juices of the plant, the melon begins to wither. Treatment is carried out with a solution of laundry soap (100 grams / 10 liters of water) or Actellika and Karbofos.

From the Wireworm the plant is enveloped in larvae that eat the juice and pulp of the culture. These orange-brown worm-like insects in their shells will simply eat the plant if left unchecked. As a preventive measure, crushed eggshells are added to the holes during planting. It is also necessary to observe crop rotation and remove weeds.

Spider mite can be recognized by the presence of a cobweb. This dark, small insect accumulates under the leaf blades and feeds on the sap of the plant. Tick ​​control is carried out using chemicals with acaricides.

Growing melon in greenhouse conditions is not easy and very responsible, and the gardener needs to get ready to carry out a whole range of cases. But these deeds will certainly be rewarded with a harvest of sweet, juicy and large fruits of the melon beloved from childhood.