Grapes in Siberia for beginners - planting and care
Content:
The Siberian Territory is a cold region, which almost everyone associates with an unfavorable climate. But still, there are three warm months in Siberia, and at this time it is possible to grow your favorite crops on your plots. Believe it or not, some grape varieties are successfully grown in Siberia.
From the history of grape cultivation in Siberian land
The success in breeding grapes on Siberian soil was not obvious. At the very first attempts to grow a grape crop, gardeners faced certain difficulties. Namely: firstly, most of the grapes could not withstand the harsh weather conditions and froze out; secondly, there is a high probability of unexpected spring frosts, which nullify all attempts to grow the crop; thirdly, at the end of the season, early autumn frosts can destroy all growth over the summer.
The main factor in growing failure is a lack of experience in this business. Gardeners tried to apply agrotechnical methods of growing grapes in the central and southern regions, which was not suitable for the Siberian region.
Altai agronomist V.K. Nedin achieved the long-awaited success in viticulture in Siberia. Further, winegrowers from Biysk achieved success. Thus, experience gradually accumulated, and a system of viticulture was formed in Siberia. The stages of this system are standard: growing, tending, harvesting and storing crops. But agrotechnical methods are special, they, of course, differ from traditional ones, and allow the grape culture to feel comfortable in unusual conditions.
In addition, there is a pleasant bonus for Siberian winegrowers: most pathogens are absent here, and harmful insects are not so active.
About the specifics of the region
There are 12 regions in the Siberian Federal District, each with its own climatic characteristics.
Conventionally, the Siberian region is divided into 3 parts:
1) North - this includes the Krasnoyarsk Territory (in the northern part), the Evenk and Dolgano-Nenets districts;
2) Eastern - this includes together with the rep. Buryatia and Tyva, the southern part of the Krasnoyarsk Territory and the Trans-Baikal Territory, Irkutsk Region;
3) Western - this includes together with the rep. Altai and Khakassia, Novosibirsk, Tomsk, Omsk, Kemerovo regions and Altai Territory.
It has become known empirically that the western territories of Siberia give the greatest harvest of grapes. Early ripening varieties are most suitable for the eastern territories.
The main varieties special for the Siberian Territory give grapes in 3-4 months.
In western Siberia, with its continental climate, with winter temperatures ranging from minus 15 to minus 30, the height of the snow cover can reach up to 20 centimeters. And the summer sun can heat the air up to + 15 + 35C. The climate here is milder, becausewith the help of the Altai mountains, this zone is closed from the Kazakh wind, and with the help of the Vasyugan swamp, the summer heat is softened. For this part of Siberia, the right varieties are selected, suitable for such a difficult climate.
In eastern Siberia, with its sharply continental climate at an average annual temperature of zero, and in winter - up to minus 40, the height of the snow can reach up to 25 cm. The winter cold is softened by calm. And in summer, despite a good number of sunny days and rare rains, the temperature regime is no more than +15 degrees. In the north, in winter, there is a polar night, that is, there is no sun for about 30 days, and on this earth there is complete darkness.
Northern Siberia is the harshest climatic territory typical for the tundra. Summer is practically absent, freezing temperatures can last for 30 days at best. In winter, the air can cool down to minus 40! In mountainous areas, snow lies throughout the year.
About grape varieties for the Siberian region
It can be called a miracle that it is possible to grow a good grape harvest in Siberia. These are varieties special for this land, adapted to the specifics of the region, where there are daily and annual temperature fluctuations.
The warm season lasts barely 90 days here (from June to September), so these lands are only for early varieties. Siberian climate is suitable for "Muromets", "Solovieva-58", "Tukaya", "Rusvena", "Kodryanki"And other early maturing varieties.
Siberian gardeners, in order to avoid failures, must initially select the correct varieties. You can also get acquainted with the previous cultivation experience, when southern varieties died on Siberian soil in the very first year.
But many years have passed since those times, and agronomists have developed varieties that, in addition to resistance to Siberian frosts, have the ability to grow comfortably in this territory.
There are 3 varietal varieties for Siberia:
- early and very early degree of maturation (such a degree in Muscat, Riddles, Thumbelina, Kaya, Buratino);
- the average degree of maturation (such a degree in "Answers", "Katyr", "White Savraska);
- late stage of maturation (such a degree in "Obskoy", "Dubinushki").
About growing Siberian grapes
The specific climate in the region requires careful preparation before planting. The first thing to do is choose the right variety. Next - make a decision about the landing site in order to specially process it before landing. The place should be bright (with the optimal amount of sunlight), dry, draft-free and protected from climatic anomalies.
Each bush should have a sufficient amount of space, since the root system is characterized by overgrowth.
It is worth emphasizing that a greenhouse is the only option for growing grapevines in Siberia. Only with its help it is possible to taste healthy and tasty berries.
In the case of many bushes, the distance between them should not be less than 2.5 m, and the rows should not be less than 2 meters.
About soil
The soil for seedlings should be warmed up (mid-April - late May). This will help to adapt to new conditions. Do not choose lowlands for planting due to the possibility of frost.
Regardless of the composition of the soil, choose the southern or eastern part of the garden plot.
The soil should not be very moist. It is necessary to install a drainage system in case the groundwater level rises. Nutrient fertilizer is added to the pit for planting each bush.
The soil to be chosen should be light and fertile. Before planting, they thoroughly dig up the site, for the looseness of the soil.
Permafrost processes are characteristic of Eastern Siberia. The main types of soils are as follows:
- podzolic soil (the soil practically does not contain nutrients);
- sod soil (soil that accumulates humus, nutrients and creates a water-resistant structure in the upper layer);
- soddy-podzolic soil (it contains a rich amount of calcium and magnesium);
- bog-podzolic soil (the soil has a large amount of silica and iron);
- permafrost-taiga soil (due to low temperatures during the growing season, it interferes with the absorption of nutrients by the plant).
Western Siberia possesses a wide variety of soils, especially in the south.
Tundra rich in tundra-gley soils.
Taiga - podzolic and sod-podzolic, in some places - permafrost-taiga.
Forest-steppe and steppe rich in chernozem and meadow-chernozem soils.
Chernozem tends to accumulate organic matter, it contains a lot of humus, and against the background of a well-pronounced lumpy-granular structure, it is very fertile.
The West Siberian and East Siberian chernozem is characterized by deep freezing and slow thawing.
About planting cuttings and seedlings
For planting grapes, you should choose the southern side of the site, well lit and sunny. Grapes are planted in the Siberian Territory using a pit or trench method and using a box. Before planting, cuttings should be properly prepared.
Trench landing method
A trench is dug to a depth of 50 cm, with side walls obliquely positioned so that the lower part is 1 meter wide. In this case, the upper sides should be 1.3 m wide.
The materials of the side walls must be strong enough: the sides are made of slate, metal sheets, oiled wooden boards. Additional reinforcement in the form of trellises will not hurt. The entire structure is raised above the ground in order to avoid water leakage over the edge of the sheathing.
The advantage of this method is that in case of severe snowless frosts, the plant will be better protected from the cold, as well as from rodents.
About landing in boxes
The boxes are shaped like a trench, however, there are no depressions here. The embankment of each wall is made with clay. Thus, the structure will keep warm during the winter. And in spring, due to this design (warming up the earth), the growing season increases by about 10-12 days.
About planting (sowing) in pits
The pit should be 0.8 meters deep. Instead of a yellow clay layer, fertile black soil is placed in the pit. We must not forget about the drainage layer: from gravel or coarse slag, from a small amount of brushwood with a soil-nutrient mixture. The mixture includes humus with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (approximately 0.5 kg of each substance). In addition, ash at the rate of 0.5 buckets per 1m2 will not interfere.
A special soil substrate is used for the top layer. It will require: garden soil, sand and humus in a ratio of 3: 1: 1. Add 100 grams (per 1m2) of universal complex fertilizer to the extract.
Given the climatic conditions, grape cuttings / seedlings are grown before being planted in open soil. During this time, they will become stronger with a developed developed root system.
If your seedling was purchased in the autumn or winter period, then its growth begins in February. To do this, take a 5 or 10 liter container with good fertile soil. The plant should be grown in a sunny location.
It is good if the seedlings are purchased in a specialized nursery. If the seedlings are strong and bought in the spring, then you can do without growing.
About mulching
Mulching in viticulture is a necessary means of crop care. Mulch (often referred to as "the clothing of the earth") can be in the form of grass, moss, hay, and straw. Such "clothing" keeps moisture in the soil and keeps the root system from sudden temperature fluctuations.
In addition, by rotting, it promotes the release of carbon dioxide, which has a beneficial effect on the plant.
Mulch is placed in warm soil in spring, and in autumn it will rot, enriching the soil with humus.
On the peculiarities of choosing a grape variety
The presence of spring and autumn frosts creates great difficulties in growing grapevines in the Siberian Territory, and the temperatures of winter frosts force us to choose frost-resistant varieties for planting in the first place.Secondly, you should pay attention to special varieties for a particular region.
Of those varieties that endure the most severe frosts, you can plant: "Siberian bird cherry", "Alpha", "Thumbelina", "Delight", "Tukai", "Muscat", "Memory of Dombkovskaya", as well as - "Lydia", "Valentin", "Atlas", "Siberian", "Maiden", "Vorontsova", "Arch", "Monarch", "White miracle", "Gift to Zaporozhye", "Ladies fingers".
And, of course, due to the short period of warm weather in the region, you should choose varieties with an early ripening period.
About the grape planting scheme
Planting a vine in the Siberian region should begin with the preparation of seedlings. If your seedlings were purchased in March, then transplant them from cups into large containers. It is worth keeping them on the windowsills until warm.
As soon as it is about 20 degrees outside the window, the plant must be hardened by taking it outside for a while. The residence time is from 1 hour, gradually increasing to 1 day.
Water the seedlings well a couple of days before planting. Plant the seedlings in the prepared holes, sprinkle with soil and sprinkle with a good amount of water (approximate consumption - 1 bucket / 1 hole).
How to form bushes
Once you have planted the seedlings outdoors, each one needs to be tied up. At the beginning of growth, the support can be in the form of a stake or some kind of stick 1 meter long.
When the first stepsons appear, they should be pinched near the 2nd sheet. According to many winegrowers, this is necessary to improve the process of photosynthesis.
Around August 15, the crown of the longest vine (all) is shortened.
Bushes from 2 vines begin to form. To do this, in the fall, one shoot is cut into 4 buds, and the second - by 2.
In the spring, support the shoots horizontally with a trellis, and those branches that will grow vertically. In autumn, cut long shoots (4 buds) into 2 parts, and later shorten again - in the center by 2 buds, and at the edge - by 4.
The next season, a horizontal garter of fruiting vines is made, and the knots are placed vertically.
About watering grapes
Watering in viticulture is an equally necessary means of caring for a crop. Despite the fact that grapes tolerate heat and drought well, watering is still necessary.
Look closely at the plant to see when it should be watered. If the leaves have become lethargic and sagging, then it's time to water. Water consumption is about 10 liters.
It is important to draw up a watering schedule for the plant:
- during bud break;
- a couple of weeks before flowering;
- a couple of weeks after;
- before hiding in the winter.
How to prune Siberian grapes
In the 1st year, the plant can give only 1 shoot, in this case it is cut off by 2 in the fall.
It should be remembered that grapes are not pruned in the spring, since they are only at the beginning of growth and accumulation of strength. After pruning, it may die.
Already in June, Siberian grapes can present the first bunches. Leave the bunches at the bottom, and cut them off at the top. Do not regret, because if you leave, then they will not all ripen.
You need to understand a little about Siberian viticulture, trying to remove the extra bunches in a different way. This way, through trial and error, you will find the way to get the maximum yield that suits you.
About fertilization and hardening of the variety
Among the features of the care of Siberian grapes is the selection of fertilizer and hardening of the plant.
It should be remembered right away that there should not be a place for nitrogen fertilizers in this region. After all, nitrogen-containing fertilizers only contribute to the growth of foliage and the thickness of the vine, they do not give any benefit to the fruit.
Fertilizers with a mineral composition and potassium are chosen. They really nourish the plant. Such fertilizers are given a couple of times a season, using the foliar method, dissolving them in water. Spraying the plant with a wood ash solution is also helpful.
There is a simple rule: grapes do not need hydrogen, oxygen or carbon, since air and water will give them them; but minerals and trace elements should be given to you!
Again about suitable varieties
As mentioned above, for a good harvest of grapes on Siberian land, you need to correctly select the variety. Let's talk about varieties for outdoor cultivation.
About the "Beauty of the North". This is a hybrid grape variety for which two hardy varieties were used: "Taifi pink" and "Zarya Severa". The result is an early ripening with large conical clusters weighing up to 300 g. The color of the fruit is white-pink, the shape is oval, and the pulp is very juicy. Against the background of good frost resistance, the variety has a high immunity to gray rot.
About "Swallow". It is also a frost-resistant variety with fruit ripening within one hundred days. Her bushes are medium-sized with medium-sized fruits. The berries are dark blue with a juicy sweet pulp. The weight of one bunch is up to 300 grams. Requires protection from wasps due to the large amount of sugar in the fruit.
About Zilge. This is a large-fruited hybrid variety that can withstand up to -32 degrees of frost. Early ripe, berries ripen in an average of 110 days. The variety is quite resistant to pests and various diseases. But high humidity can cause fungal diseases. The berries are large, black-blue, with a pleasant taste. The yield per bush reaches 12 kg.
About "Muromets". This grape variety can withstand up to 26 degrees of frost (without shelter). This hybrid is created from table varieties: from "Pobeda" and "Severny". This variety is large, vigorous and resistant to mildew. Fruits are dark purple, large (up to 5 g).
About "Soloviev-58". It is a medium-sized, early-maturing variety with white-golden fruits. The weight of one bunch can reach up to 300 g. The taste is nutmeg. The variety is frost-resistant, withstands up to 32 degrees of frost.
Now let's talk about the best varietal options for greenhouse plantings.
About "Tukai". A vigorous table variety, reaching a height of up to 3 meters. Early ripening, ripens on average in 95 days. Immunity defeats gray rot. The weight of one grape is up to 5 g, and a bunch can reach up to 0.8 kg. This variety is not afraid of frost down to -25 degrees.
About Rusven. An early ripe variety forms large clusters, the weight of which is up to 0.5 kg. Fruits are matte pink, juicy and sweet. The variety is frost-resistant (-27) and quite productive (up to 16 tons per hectare).
About Amirkhan. This table variety has an early ripening period, and frost resistance is up to -25 degrees. The cylindro-conical bunch can weigh up to 0.8-1 kg. The berries are large, pink in color with a pleasant nutmeg taste.
About Rapture. This table variety can withstand frost down to -25 with medium disease resistance. The berries are reddish-pink (up to 10 g each), the bunch has a conical shape and reaches a weight of 0.85 kg. The berry has a fleshy flesh with a thin skin and a pleasant taste.
About "Kara Jijigi". It is a vigorous variety with loose conical clusters. The fruits are juicy, the taste is harmonious. Possesses low resistance to powdery mildew.
About the time of planting grape seedlings in the Siberian region
For active root growth, a warm temperature regime is required. Siberian varieties develop about 8-10 times slower than southern varieties. For productive cultivation, they are waiting for the establishment of calm warm weather (the average temperature should be +15 degrees). On average, in the Siberian region, it occurs at the end of May.
Saplings are brought into open soil when the weather is cloudy, or in the evening. To prepare for landing:
- at home, seedlings are placed in water to start the growing process;
- shorten the roots to 0.1 m;
- cut the vines to two or three eyes, and also remove the dried and frozen part of the seedlings;
- roots are soaked in heteroaunsine or sodium humate (solutions), water for the solution is taken at a temperature of + 25 + 30 degrees;
- the prepared roots, after soaking, are dipped into a clay mash;
- fully prepared seedlings are planted in open soil.
Features of growing grapevine in the Siberian region
Growing a vine in the Siberian region in the open field for a beginner is, of course, a risky business. More and more novice growers are choosing cultivation in greenhouse conditions.
But experienced specialists consider the agrotechnology of viticulture in open soils in the Siberian region to be quite simple. To do this, you just need:
- weeding of plantings from weeds;
- rare watering;
- feeding;
- order in the aisle (periodic mowing of grass);
- there is no need to treat harmful insects, since they are almost all absent.
Planting options for grapes
- Long vine
Rows of grape plantings are made from north to south. Supports are needed for a long vine. They can serve as slabs up to 2.5 meters high, dug into the ground. Wire is stretched from one column to another at different heights.
- Greenhouse
In greenhouse conditions, the grapes grow remarkably and give an excellent harvest. The difference between growing in unprotected soil and growing in protected, of course, is present.
The height of the greenhouse structure is required to be quite large (at least 3 meters). The greenhouse must be solid and have heating and lighting devices.
It must be borne in mind that this culture requires its own temperature regime in different growing periods. With the right approach, the plant will not experience stress, and will give an excellent harvest.
The required temperature in the greenhouse is maintained through heating and ventilation.
So, different phases of growth require their own temperature regime:
1) Spring budding. The optimum daytime temperature is + 10 + 20 ° C and from + 8 ° C at night;
2) The appearance of inflorescences. The optimum daytime temperature is + 25 ° C and from + 15 ° C at night;
3) Fruit formation. The optimum daytime temperature is + 30 ° C and from + 18 ° C at night;
Pollination of plants is carried out manually, it must be timely, even in the case of adapted varieties.
Winegrowers should not forget to remove in time the leaves that shade the bunches, and too lengthening tops of the shoots with leaves (chasing).
The greenhouse soil is enriched with a nutrient mixture and do not forget about abundant watering.
Systematic ventilation inside the greenhouses is also required. They will maintain an optimal climatic dry regime, thanks to which the plant is not threatened with any diseases.
Particularly compassionate winegrowers still carry out preventive treatments with solutions of potassium permanganate or special preparations.
- Tapestry
To control the growth of the vine, increase the yield, and also to make it easier to harvest, use a support in the form of a trellis. If no supports are used, then a plant that has sunk to the ground under its own weight has a better chance of picking up fungi, mold and all kinds of pests. It is also more convenient to prune the vine resting on the trellis, spray it, and even collect the bunches.
Tapestries are placed in two ways:
- along the wall, from the west to the east, the trellises in this case resemble a solid wall;
- the supports are placed not in one plane, but in two, from the northern part of the site to the southern, the installation form is V-shaped.
In the Siberian region, for maximum yield, grape bushes are arranged vertically in a heart-ray form with the help of trellises.
- Barrels
Growing grapes in a barrel is growing in a confined space. You can install it in any part of the garden. In the Siberian region, which has a cool climate, this method is very suitable, because in the winter cold, planting is under reliable warm protection.
Barrels with plantings in winter can not only be transferred to warm rooms, but also bury it at an angle with soil in trenches.
Around the middle of spring, the barrels with the plants must be moved to the greenhouses.On warm days in May, the plant will bloom, and at the very beginning of summer, barrels of grapes must be moved outside, to the south side.
The plant needs a little shade, as in the sun the root system can grow too large.
With good wintering and healthy vegetative development, as well as with proper care, the harvest can be harvested already in the middle of summer. To plant a grape seedling, the barrel should be up to 70 liters in volume. This container holds up to 50 liters of potting soil. As a rule, after 8-10 years, these containers are dismantled, and the plants are planted in open soil.
Before planting seedlings, the barrels are prepared. To begin with, drill holes in the bottom (40 pieces, 1 cm in diameter). First comes a drainage layer of brick chips or expanded clay. Then comes a layer of fertile soil.
In extreme summer heat, the barrels are covered from the sun. By avoiding overheating, the root systems of the plant will be protected.
Only three years later, they begin to feed the plants with the help of complex fertilizers, pouring them into the ground. Water about once a week.
This method has both pros and cons:
- a rather laborious process of carrying heavy barrels, regular digging with earth;
- you constantly have to be careful and shade the plants;
- only low-growing varieties are planted in barrels.
- Container
The container method resembles a trench, only with the location above the ground. When preparing containers, the surface of the walls is treated with a clay solution for insulation (so that the roots do not freeze in winter). When planted in this way in a grape crop, the growing season begins almost 2 weeks earlier.
The grapes are often planted in greenhouse containers (plastic containers range from 5 to 20 liters). Containers with grapes in containers can be placed in greenhouses in early spring and kept there until a stable heat. Thus, the plants will be protected from spring frosts.
With the onset of stable heat, the plants are taken out to a bright place in the backyard. In the fall, when preparing for winter, they do the digging of containers and cover the vines.
About standard-free fan forming of grapes
Standard grapes are not grown in cold climates. In the Siberian Territory, the standard form is "replaced" with a fan-shaped one. A fan-shaped bush is easier to place on the ground to provide shelter and is easier to maintain.
The non-standard fan shape is formed as follows:
— young bushes of grapes, which have grown a little during the current season, are left without pruning in the fall, before sheltering for the winter;
- they are cut off in the following spring during the period when the buds open: the central trunk is trimmed, leaving two lower sleeves;
- the two lower sleeves remain with two buds on each trunk, while the others are removed (i.e. 2 branches and 4 buds);
- the lower shoots are cut off, leaving 2 branches (each has 2 buds);
- in the fall, the bush of the 1st year is not cut off, leaving 2-4 sleeves on it in the winter;
- in the fall, a two-year-old bush is also not pruned, but in the 3rd year in the spring, the shoots are pruned into five or six buds;
- depending on the length of the internode, the length of the knots is left (about 55-77 cm);
- then they tie the plant to the fishing line at the bottom, at the same time form a fan in 4 sleeves;
- perform a garter to the lower wire, forming a 4-arm fan (i.e., a 3-year-old plant);
During the growing season, each arm will give three more branches, the rest are removed. Do not get rid of one lower branch from the outside of the bush and two from the inside.
Summer will give each sleeve several more shoots: three of them are left.
A three-year-old bush will give the first harvest: for good ripening, one cluster should be left on the lower shoots.
After harvesting in mid-autumn, three-year-old bushes are cut off, making fruit links from the sleeves. Thus, a fan shape is formed: the arms of the plant extend from the center of the bush.
A V-shaped two-plane trellis implies the formation of a plant from 6-8 sleeves, and a single-plane vertical (3-4 tiers, height 1.8 m) - from 2-4 sleeves.
On the care of the vine in the Siberian region
The main stages of vine care in the Siberian region:
- regular pinching of grapes;
- tying up shoots;
- regular watering;
- removal of every second bunch;
- feeding;
- spraying against harmful insects with fungicides.
Fertilize plants in late summer - early autumn. During this period, two or three feeding should be done using phosphorus and potassium containing fertilizers.
By the beginning of October, when there is a possibility of the first frost, the plant is cut off. The one-year-old vine is left with two 20-centimeter shoots without foliage and pasture. A two-year-old vine is cut off, leaving two one and a half meter shoots.
A three-year-old vine is left after pruning with 4 shoots.
Important: do not forget, when cutting the plant, leave 1 knot and 2 fruit arrows!
About preparing grapes for winter
All the labor of growing can be in vain if it is illiterate to prepare plantings for winter.
Let's talk about the most common and proven methods in this region.
- Sprinkle soil with a layer of 20 cm or more. The disadvantage of this method is its laboriousness and the possible death of a large number of buds underground due to podperevaniya.
- Covering with straw, husks, needles or sawdust.
- Covering with wooden flooring, protective shields or wooden planks. A triangular structure is assembled from the above elements and is installed on the outside of the bush.
You can cover the grape culture in the winter with any available materials: linoleum, corrugated cardboard, roofing material.
The vine is removed from the support and placed on the soil. Further, it is covered with protective materials. At the very end, the entire structure is tightened with plastic wrap. In the presence of snow, sprinkle with it, which is the most reliable way to protect against frost.
If the weather changes towards warming, airing is done so that the plant does not languish from the heat.
More and more frost-resistant grape varieties appear every year. There are even some that can withstand the cold without any covering structures. But according to the recommendations of experts, you should still cover the vine in case of temperatures below -20 degrees.
Usually, the protection is removed on the 15th of April and later, they do it in stages, completing the entire process by mid-May. Thus, the plant will gradually harden and be able to withstand even the most severe winters.
About planting in open ground
Only with the steady fulfillment of all stages of planting can a high yield of grapes be expected.
- A planting hole is dug 1 m deep and wide, depending on the width of the seedling.
- At the very bottom of the pit, a drainage layer is placed, the next is a compost layer, then a humus layer.
- Sometimes a pipe is installed in the landing hole, which rises 20-25 centimeters above the ground. With its help, oxygen and moisture will be delivered to the plant. In winter, the pipe is covered with the plant.
- Humus and sand are added to the soil that is dug out of the hole. Part of this soil mixture is returned to the pit and a plant is planted into it, adding the rest of the mixture.
- At the end, watered abundantly.
A little about the wreckage of shoots
The relevance of fragments of grape shrubs will appear when the shoots become grown up. There can be about 90 of them on one bush. With the help of breaking off, you can prevent excessive density of bushes. After thickening leads to loss of yield.
Ideally, the bush should have about 30 healthy shoots. And the second piece should end with a vine garter.
Conclusion
The Siberian Territory is a great place to grow grapes. Even a novice winegrower can do this. True, an excellent result is achieved with the help of greater efforts compared to the southern regions.
A big bonus for the winegrowers of Siberia is that there are practically no pathogens of various diseases of the grape culture on this land, and the pests of this plant are rather inactive.
If there is a danger of frost, grapes are planted in closed soil. This is reliable and protects the plant from low temperatures.
In the case of planting in open soil, you should carefully cover the plant and prepare insulation for the planting site.
For grape seedlings, watering, feeding and fertilizing are regularly carried out, which is not difficult.
In custody
Grape in the Siberian latitudes, it has been grown very readily for many decades. In the 21st century, many frost-resistant species and varieties of grapes with early and medium ripening periods suitable for Siberia have appeared.
The key to success and a great harvest is in compliance with a few agrotechnical rules, as well as in regular care and watering.
With a sub-zero temperature regime below 20 degrees, it is necessary to protect the plant with the help of various types of shelter.